Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

 * Browse over 200,000 posts.
 * Communicate privately with other scrollers from around the world.
 * Post your own photos or view from 7,000 user submitted images.
 * Gain access to exclusive scroll saw promotions offered by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts and Fox Chapel Publishing.

All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.

Go Back   Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board > Scroll Saw > Beginners Scroll Saw
Connect with Facebook

Grobet - Pegas Scroll Saw blads
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-08-2013, 03:21 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Blade Drifting

I am just now getting into Scroll Sawing and have a few questions. I have a 16" Craftsman Saw and I keep breaking blades just from trying to get the right tension. I am currently stationed in Germany and have only found the pinned blades and when I stick it in there and get what feels like a good tension, the pins snap off. I have been looking on Amazon at the Flying Dutchman spiral blades and regular blades and am thinking about getting away from the pinned type blades. Also, my second problem is actually cutting.... i'm pretty sure i'm doing it entirely wrong because the blade takes a drastic turn to the left when i'm trying to cut semi straight lines. After reading alot of articles I think it was from trying to "force" the wood through the blade. It seemed to make the blade cut horrible with the more pressure that was put on the blade. I first thought it was the tuning screw that could be off, and I tried to adjust it, but none of my allen wrenches would fit. So, I guess my question is, what type of blade, wood, and first project should I try to at least get a feel for this scroll saw and what is a good way to get tension on these blades without snapping them?
portvegas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 06:57 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
evilbadger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,577
Thanks: 15
Thanked 167 Times in 153 Posts
Default

Welcome to the forum and for serving.


You should be able to pluck your blade like a guitar string and get a high C note out of it. If you take your finger and push on the side of the blade it should not move very much if the tension is set right. For blades most of the people on the forum like the Flying Dutchman blades and Mike has the best service around for them. Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades
Those blades only come in plain end (no pins) If you need to use pin end blades then try Olsen blades from Sloan's Scroll Saw Blades

For choice of wood I would go with Poplar or Cedar to start with.

Remember a scroll saw is not like other saws that just go through wood like butter you have to relax and take your time when scrolling. The most important thing with a scroll saw is practice, practice, practice.
__________________
Tim

In God we trust, all others must pay cash!

I don't want no bargains, they always cost me more money.

evilbadger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 07:28 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Daddy's scroller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,015
Thanks: 11
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
Default

Just take your time.if your tension is to tight your blades will break or if you push your wood to hard it will also.just keep practicing it will come.
__________________
Tricia
Daddy's scroller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 08:25 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Euharlee, GA
Posts: 1,033
Thanks: 25
Thanked 114 Times in 97 Posts
Default

The blades the boss ,the number of teeth per in is chosen for the finish of the cut and the material you are cutting ,less teeth rougher cut (faster feed rate ability)more teeth smoother finish (slower feed rate ) The speed of the blade and the feed rate , is determined by the blade of choice. You can not force feed a scroll saw . It has to have time to clear the saw dust out of the fine teeth ,to continue to cut ,any extra force bows the blade in the forces direction jamming the saw dust in the blade ,preventing the cutting action , super heats the tiny blade , it expands (Lengthens slightly) tension lessens ,blade dulls ,because no longer cutting straight . All this happens in the bat of an eye . No matter the scroll saw this fact is paramount ,you can only guide the work to the blade at the rate the blade can completely cut .This is the sad fact that every one on this forum has had to come to grips with .Slow and steady ,easy and true , THE BLADES THE BOSS!!
You can pull a chain ,BUT YOU CAN'T PUSH ONE!! Give it some time , you will be doing fine stuff very soon!!
__________________
"Home Of The Dust Free Scroll Saw"
Remember (IT is WHAT it IS)( Unless YOU change IT!)
Carl E Jacobs is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Carl E Jacobs For This Useful Post:
Surprise! (12-10-2013)
Old 12-08-2013, 09:04 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Roswell, ga.
Posts: 145
Thanks: 2
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Default

If you see the cut wander back off your pressure momentarily to let the blade clear itself and let you realign the cut as needed. On thicker stock this winds up being every second or so for me. You should also check you blade for squareness side to side and front to back. Theres enough discussion on board here to locate some good guidance for that.
Be patient, get in the zone, have fun!
Gary beasley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 10:24 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 186
Thanks: 1
Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Make sure the blade is installed with the teeth pointed down. Most blades "drift" to the right caused by the way they are made. Thanks for your service.
Fredfret
Wichita, ks
fredfret is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 11:29 AM   #7
3_M
Senior Member
 
3_M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Brandon, SD
Posts: 1,581
Thanks: 1
Thanked 58 Times in 49 Posts
Default

Most have given you good advice.
You need good tension, good speed and push very slow into the blade, let the blade do the cutting, they say. Never be in a hurry.
To stay on the line, you have to move the wood some degree to the right. If the blade cuts to the left, you have the blade up-side down.
FD Mike
__________________
FD MIKE

Home of the FD Blades
3_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:20 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.