Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts.
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|12-08-2013, 03:21 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am just now getting into Scroll Sawing and have a few questions. I have a 16" Craftsman Saw and I keep breaking blades just from trying to get the right tension. I am currently stationed in Germany and have only found the pinned blades and when I stick it in there and get what feels like a good tension, the pins snap off. I have been looking on Amazon at the Flying Dutchman spiral blades and regular blades and am thinking about getting away from the pinned type blades. Also, my second problem is actually cutting.... i'm pretty sure i'm doing it entirely wrong because the blade takes a drastic turn to the left when i'm trying to cut semi straight lines. After reading alot of articles I think it was from trying to "force" the wood through the blade. It seemed to make the blade cut horrible with the more pressure that was put on the blade. I first thought it was the tuning screw that could be off, and I tried to adjust it, but none of my allen wrenches would fit. So, I guess my question is, what type of blade, wood, and first project should I try to at least get a feel for this scroll saw and what is a good way to get tension on these blades without snapping them?
|12-08-2013, 06:57 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Florida
Thanked 167 Times in 153 Posts
Welcome to the forum and for serving.
You should be able to pluck your blade like a guitar string and get a high C note out of it. If you take your finger and push on the side of the blade it should not move very much if the tension is set right. For blades most of the people on the forum like the Flying Dutchman blades and Mike has the best service around for them. Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades
Those blades only come in plain end (no pins) If you need to use pin end blades then try Olsen blades from Sloan's Scroll Saw Blades
For choice of wood I would go with Poplar or Cedar to start with.
Remember a scroll saw is not like other saws that just go through wood like butter you have to relax and take your time when scrolling. The most important thing with a scroll saw is practice, practice, practice.
In God we trust, all others must pay cash!
I don't want no bargains, they always cost me more money.
|12-08-2013, 07:28 AM||#3|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
Just take your time.if your tension is to tight your blades will break or if you push your wood to hard it will also.just keep practicing it will come.
|12-08-2013, 08:25 AM||#4|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Euharlee, GA
Thanked 114 Times in 97 Posts
The blades the boss ,the number of teeth per in is chosen for the finish of the cut and the material you are cutting ,less teeth rougher cut (faster feed rate ability)more teeth smoother finish (slower feed rate ) The speed of the blade and the feed rate , is determined by the blade of choice. You can not force feed a scroll saw . It has to have time to clear the saw dust out of the fine teeth ,to continue to cut ,any extra force bows the blade in the forces direction jamming the saw dust in the blade ,preventing the cutting action , super heats the tiny blade , it expands (Lengthens slightly) tension lessens ,blade dulls ,because no longer cutting straight . All this happens in the bat of an eye . No matter the scroll saw this fact is paramount ,you can only guide the work to the blade at the rate the blade can completely cut .This is the sad fact that every one on this forum has had to come to grips with .Slow and steady ,easy and true , THE BLADES THE BOSS!!
You can pull a chain ,BUT YOU CAN'T PUSH ONE!! Give it some time , you will be doing fine stuff very soon!!
"Home Of The Dust Free Scroll Saw"
Remember (IT is WHAT it IS)( Unless YOU change IT!)
|The Following User Says Thank You to Carl E Jacobs For This Useful Post:|| |
|12-08-2013, 09:04 AM||#5|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Roswell, ga.
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
If you see the cut wander back off your pressure momentarily to let the blade clear itself and let you realign the cut as needed. On thicker stock this winds up being every second or so for me. You should also check you blade for squareness side to side and front to back. Theres enough discussion on board here to locate some good guidance for that.
Be patient, get in the zone, have fun!
|12-08-2013, 10:24 AM||#6|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts
Make sure the blade is installed with the teeth pointed down. Most blades "drift" to the right caused by the way they are made. Thanks for your service.
|12-08-2013, 11:29 AM||#7|
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Brandon, SD
Thanked 58 Times in 49 Posts
Most have given you good advice.
You need good tension, good speed and push very slow into the blade, let the blade do the cutting, they say. Never be in a hurry.
To stay on the line, you have to move the wood some degree to the right. If the blade cuts to the left, you have the blade up-side down.
Home of the FD Blades