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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2012
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Hello, I am both new here and new to scroll saws. (I am very mechanically inclined though) I just got a new DW 788 and after cutting some thin material, I noticed the edges were ever-so-slightly angled. I checked the cast iron work surface instinctively and it was square with the rest of the machine. (Not the table, as the table it self could be off) I checked the blade and it was actually angled like this: / Just for fun, I adjusted the table to be square with the blade and it was about 1 degree off - the table stood up very noticeably. I then reset the table and moved on to adjusting those little thumb screws along with the set screws that are in the blade holder. As any mechanical thing that needs adjustment, I did it little by little. In short, multiple "little by little's" later, my set screws were maxed out and the image below is the best I could achieve as for alignment. It is still noticeably off and shows it self when I try to stack cut or just cut thick materials and the inside cut pieces are hard to get out. Also, I did make all the adjustments and test them with tension on the blade, so it isn't the blade warping from being loose. While working with this saw, I noticed a whapping noise above speeds 4, and there is quite a bit of vibration around there. The front blade holder arms also look about 1/8th inch longer than the bottom so making sharp cuts is hard since the blade is moving forward and backwards a small amount as opposed to straight up and down. It might be my OCD for the things in the last paragraph, I can get over those. But for the blade alignment, I need it to be correct since I plan to stack cut model aircraft wing ribs with it. I am aware I could just sand them down but after paying $500 for a tool, it should atleast be able to have the full range of adjustment. (I also know scroll saw isn't CNC precise, but a true right angle would be nice) I called the service rep and they have never heard of this problem and said the whapping noise was from older models. He suggested something got bent in transit and said it will be 3-4 weeks before he can even look at it. Is there any other adjustments internally I could make? I imagine it would only take about 1/32nd on the top holder to make it run true. The bottom blade holder seems to be in line. Any input would be appreciated. |
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| | #2 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Manchester, TN
Posts: 727
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Joe, take a look at this link Tune Here you will find possible fixes for both the blade travel and the knocking. On the side angle issue, note the clamps on both top and bottom have set screws that can extend in and out a bit. Seems like your issue might be more extreme than this but I would still check. The setscrew should be just barely protruding into the clamp space. (Some would say it should be "just proud" of the clamp opening. Good luck. -----Randy
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| | #3 |
| Senior Moment Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Northwest New Jersey
Posts: 2,258
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Joe It's important to have both blade clamp set screws lined up perpendicular to one another. Otherwise you get side to side travel in the blade. With a tensioned blade in the saw (a fine toothed blade works best) and the arms at the top of the stroke, lay end of a metal rule to the right of the blade on the table, put the end of the rule against the blade, using flat screw drive in the slot on the end of the motor shaft, turn the shaft until the arms reach the bottom of the stroke. If the blade moves away from the end of the ruler the bottom screw needs to be "deeper" in the clamp or the top needs to be "shallower" if the blade pushes the ruler away, the bottom screw needs to be "shallower' in the clamp or the top needs to be "deeper". You have to play around with the set screws to get the blade to travel straight up and down. As you said "little by little" works best. I hope this is understandable and doesn't confuse the situation. |
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| | #4 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Manchester, TN
Posts: 727
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Joe, if you just bought that saw new and it is making noise, I wouldn't even try to fix it. I would take it back. I might try replacing it with the newest Delta model which has some slight improvements over the older 788 design. You might even consider the Excalibur. -------Randy
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Michigan
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What Randy said... You don't want to void the warranty by working on it yourself too much. T |
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| | #6 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SE MA USA
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Joe, If by chance you got your saw on Amazon (where I got mine). It made a rapping sound around 4 and up. Notified Amazon and had a new saw 3 days later. Good Luck Mike |
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| | #7 |
| Scroller Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Duluth, GA
Posts: 212
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Joe I agree with Randy. If the 788 is giving you a problem right out of the box, trade it in on the newest Delta machine. They are basically the same price but the new machine has fixed problems with the 788 - AND - it has a great warranty. As far as getting the Excaliber - wore my version 1 out in less than 3 years - still thinking about spending another $800 for a 2-year warranty machine. That being said, I am a power user and loved the EX21 while it was working.
__________________ Fred aka Pop's Shop Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass...it's about learning to dance in the rain!. |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008
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I have had my EX30 for over 20 years and it sill is runing OK. I also haave a 788 but I always go back to my Excaliber. |
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