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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012
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I am a new scroller(Mar12) with an Excaliber21 saw. I am having a hard time following a pattern line, straight or not. I have tried varying blades,tension, feed speed, stroke speed. My saw does not always maintain a 90 degree cut, especially with curves. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? I have been working with wood for over 40 years, with extensive finishing and cabinet making experience, having most available stationary and portable power tools but cannot master a scroll saw. Can somebody help?? I moved your thread to a more appropriate forum to maximize traffic and get you more responses to your post/request/question. Last edited by wood-n-things; 06-11-2012 at 06:11 AM. |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Seattle(ish)
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Hi Aquarium, Welcome to the forums and to scrollsawing! What type of wood are you cutting, how thick, and what sort of blade are you using? Common problems that can cause skewed cuts include dull blades, low tension, and overly aggressive feed speed. It is more likely in thicker and harder woods. Practice is the only sure way to improve your pattern following skills. Look a bit ahead of where the blade is cutting and try to keep your feed slow and smooth. Some people find a magnifying lens helpful. --Rob |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Mid-Hudson Valley
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The usual reason that people don't maintain a 90 degree cut (me included) is that we tend to push the blade to one side. Focus on keeping the blade straight vertically and let the blade do the work. Jack |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
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Along with the reasons stated above. With a few exceptions most blades will cut to one side more aggresively than the other because of a burr created during blade manufacture. We all learn to compensate for this with experience.
__________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can" Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association |
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| | #5 |
| Normal Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ireland
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Hi Aquarium, good advice above. Steve Good runs a series of video tutorials on cutting straight lines, curves, et al Scrollsaw Workshop
__________________ Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Brandon, SD
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Rolf is correct about the burr. You have to move the wood some degree to the right to stay on the line. FD Mike
__________________ Home of the FD Blades |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Glen Burnie, MD
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Jack, Mid-Hudson valley, near Peekskill? My niece lives there.
__________________ Betty "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital |
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| | #8 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012
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Thanks to all who offered advice, I am trying to concentrate on all those suggestions. I think I expect to much to soon, I'm still in scroll saw school. All my projects have been in cherry, walnut, wenge, rosewood in 3/4 stock. I'll try for patience..............
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Paris, Texas
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Hello Aqarium, my name is Tony,aka,Toneman from Paris, Texas. I am by no means an expert (started scrolling Jan. 2012) and also use an Ex 21. I also started with 3/4" hard wood, and experienced the same problems, so, I tried 1/4" and 1/2" baltic plywood and found it much easier to stay on line. I slowed my saw down to 3/4 speed and went to a larger blade (#5) and this gave me more control. Like I said, I am no expert, this just seemed to work for me. Now, I can use smaller blades and cut a little faster and can stay on line on fret patterns and portraits.
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 2,484
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Hi, and welcome to the forum. You certainly selected beautiful but difficult to cut woods to start. I do mostly intarsia and swear off cutting wenge ever again each time I forget that promise and do it anyway. Selecting the correct blade for those woods is important. 3_M, also known as Mike the Flying Dutchman blade expert would be a lot of help. Give him a call. Blade tension is also very important. There should be no more than a 1/8 in. deflection in the blade when pushed from the side. Other than that, practice is, indeed, the way to cutting well. I might suggest getting some of the less exotic woods like poplar or aspen which are both very easy to cut and inexpensive enough to justify using for practice. Jan |
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