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|06-07-2012, 04:49 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am a new scroller(Mar12) with an Excaliber21 saw. I am having a hard time following a pattern line, straight or not. I have tried varying blades,tension, feed speed, stroke speed. My saw does not always maintain a 90 degree cut, especially with curves. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?
I have been working with wood for over 40 years, with extensive finishing and cabinet making experience, having most available stationary and portable power tools but cannot master a scroll saw. Can somebody help??
I moved your thread to a more appropriate forum to maximize traffic and get you more responses to your post/request/question.
Last edited by wood-n-things; 06-11-2012 at 06:11 AM.
|06-07-2012, 06:10 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Thanked 12 Times in 11 Posts
Welcome to the forums and to scrollsawing!
What type of wood are you cutting, how thick, and what sort of blade are you using?
Common problems that can cause skewed cuts include dull blades, low tension, and overly aggressive feed speed. It is more likely in thicker and harder woods.
Practice is the only sure way to improve your pattern following skills. Look a bit ahead of where the blade is cutting and try to keep your feed slow and smooth. Some people find a magnifying lens helpful.
|06-07-2012, 10:54 AM||#3|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mid-Hudson Valley
Thanked 11 Times in 8 Posts
The usual reason that people don't maintain a 90 degree cut (me included) is that we tend to push the blade to one side. Focus on keeping the blade straight vertically and let the blade do the work.
|06-07-2012, 11:35 AM||#4|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bellport, LI New York
Thanked 107 Times in 98 Posts
Along with the reasons stated above. With a few exceptions most blades will cut to one side more aggresively than the other because of a burr created during blade manufacture. We all learn to compensate for this with experience.
RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350
Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association
|06-07-2012, 11:44 AM||#5|
Join Date: May 2010
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Hi Aquarium, good advice above. Steve Good runs a series of video tutorials on cutting straight lines, curves, et al
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
|06-11-2012, 02:52 AM||#7|
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
Jack, Mid-Hudson valley, near Peekskill? My niece lives there.
"Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital
|06-11-2012, 03:02 AM||#8|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks to all who offered advice, I am trying to concentrate on all those suggestions. I think I expect to much to soon, I'm still in scroll saw school. All my projects have been in cherry, walnut, wenge, rosewood in 3/4 stock. I'll try for patience..............
|06-11-2012, 02:51 PM||#9|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Paris, Texas
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Hello Aqarium, my name is Tony,aka,Toneman from Paris, Texas. I am by no means an expert (started scrolling Jan. 2012) and also use an Ex 21. I also started with 3/4" hard wood, and experienced the same problems, so, I tried 1/4" and 1/2" baltic plywood and found it much easier to stay on line. I slowed my saw down to 3/4 speed and went to a larger blade (#5) and this gave me more control. Like I said, I am no expert, this just seemed to work for me. Now, I can use smaller blades and cut a little faster and can stay on line on fret patterns and portraits.
|06-11-2012, 03:17 PM||#10|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southwest Florida
Thanked 27 Times in 26 Posts
Hi, and welcome to the forum. You certainly selected beautiful but difficult to cut woods to start. I do mostly intarsia and swear off cutting wenge ever again each time I forget that promise and do it anyway. Selecting the correct blade for those woods is important. 3_M, also known as Mike the Flying Dutchman blade expert would be a lot of help. Give him a call. Blade tension is also very important. There should be no more than a 1/8 in. deflection in the blade when pushed from the side.
Other than that, practice is, indeed, the way to cutting well. I might suggest getting some of the less exotic woods like poplar or aspen which are both very easy to cut and inexpensive enough to justify using for practice.
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