scrolling tight turns?

[jpedersm]

Lately when I am trying to make a tight turn I eaither shoot pass where I want the new derection to go or I get close to it but, the board jumps all over the place. I was watching a tutorial on some guy making puzzeles and while he was turning it was going so fast dont know if he stayed on the line he wanted or not but, the board was not jumping. To make this not happen would I need to speed the saw up. I think my tention is right but if it was not fully tentioned would this cause it to? The blade I have been using are the scroll revers and two way cut 3 and 5.

[Keith Fenton]

When starting out it may be easier for you to not use reverse tooth blades since they do catch and cause the board to jump more easily than standard blades would. Speeding up the saw will also reduce how much this happens.

How thick is the wood you are cutting? Could you use smaller blades? Smaller blades will catch less easily when turning and can do tighter corners more freely. I tend to use the smallest blades that will do the job in most detail work. I very rarely use any bigger than a #2 and usually I use smaller than that... I use #2/0 for almost everything . The only real exception is when I'm cutting up a board or doing the perimeter of a project.

More tension may help you. I don't know what kind of saw you have or how tight you have your blades but maybe you could try a little more tension.

Different brand blades behave differently as well but I think your problem is more likely due to the size of the blade you are using. I have been scrolling for a couple years and still get projects pulled out of my hands sometimes when I use #5's

[skeeter]

You pretty much have it pegged SCROLL3R, I have found that blade size matters

[jpedersm]

i am trying to do a project right now with 3/8 red oak. I am to the point when coming to a corner (which most are 45 - 90 degrees) stop back out to the entry hole and come down another line and meet where I left off. By doing this it is making the corners prety good but, it does take alot more time. The blade I am using right now on it is t 3 two way cut. Could I down size the blade to a 2 or 1 on this thick of wood for the inside cuts? Also since I am new when I am doing the ouside edges the staite line where I am going to glue stuff together is that stright. With the eye you can tell it but, once you meet another edge you can see a diffrence. What is the best way to sand these so all the side and pieces will join smoothly?

[Keith Fenton]

To get sharp 90 degree corners, you can spin the workpiece in place 270 degrees in the opposite direction (if that side is in waste area) which makes a spin hole and allows you to get a nice straight start into your next cut and you get a nice, sharp corner. I use normally use #2/0 on 3/8" thick but for oak maybe a #1 or #2 would be ok because the blade wants to follow the grain a little more than on many other woods. Personally, I would probably still use a #2/0

To get an edge flat, you can spray glue a sheet of coarse sandpaper to a scrap board that you know is flat. Sometimes I just hold the sandpaper face up on the table of the scroll saw and sand that way.

[jpedersm]

Is there any other blades out there you recomend me using other then the scroll reverse or two way cut that wont lift the wood off the table as much?

[wood-n-things]

If you are having that big a problem. Try turning the blade end for end. You may have it in upside down. The teeth when run across the edge of your thumbnail should catch on the way down. You must also keep downward pressure on your work piece near the blade.

[Mick Walker]

jpedersm, how close do you get your hands to the blade? sounds like you are not holding the wood down enough. I am right handed, hold the wood down with my left hand and move the wood into the blade with my right hand. You want the tension as tight as a fiddle string. Too much tension is better than too little. I use mostly 2/0, 28 t.p.i. reverse blades. Shooting past where you want to go in a different direction you are pushing the wood too fast, slow down when you are approaching an intersection. Stop before you get there, let the bow in the blade catch up and you will be right where you want to change direction. Practice, practice, practice and relax while cutting.

[jpedersm]

Thanks for the replies guys

[jpedersm]

Heres the start of the clock I am doing from Steve Goods website. This is the bottom sides of the clock.