Blade types

[Paul McKibben]

Can someone explain the differences between the various types of blades that are available?

Also are there any rules of thumbs when choosing a blade type for a project?

I assume the smaller the blade number, the smaller the blade.

[Bill Wilson]

Well the general rule is the smaller the number the smaller the blade. Also the smaller the blade, generally the higher the TPI count, more teeth means smoother cut, but slower. Larger blades, fewer TPI for thicker, harder material. Smaller blades with higher TPI for thin, delicate work.

There are several types of tooth configurations. Reverse tooth is very popular. It has a few teeth at the bottom of the blade pointing opposite of the rest, to help reduce chip out on the bottom of wood. Skip tooth blades have gaps every so often, are more aggressive and clear chips better thus run a little cooler than reverse tooth.

There are spiral blades that allow you to cut in any direction without turning the wood. There are several special types like crown tooth, precision ground, double tooth, etc. I suggest you go to "Other Great Sites" and link up with Mikes Workshop and/or Sloan's. Both websites give you a pretty good description of the blade types they offer.

It can be a little confusing and perhaps overwhelming at first, but try several different types/sizes in various materials and you will quickly get s sense of what you like best. Afterall, it will always boil down to personal preference, eventually.

Actually a better answer is to read this thread. FAQ blades

[Paul McKibben]

Thank you Bill.

[RichZ]

Paul, Go online to Mike'sWorkshop "The Flying Dutchman". He will send you some samples to try. Most scrollers know of him, great guy, blades are ok too. I use his ultra's myself. One of the most known designers, John Nelson, once told me he only uses #5's and #3's.

Richie Z