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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
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I'm a novice that has had a Delta 40-601 scroll saw for quite some time. I've always had problems keeping the blades secured. Either they break, or they just come out of the clamps. It's pretty frustrating & that's probably why I don't use it that often. I'm not sure if I'm using the right blades (I've always used 5" blades) since there doesn't seem to be much length actually in the clamps. I took a look at the clamps tonight and I was also wondering if they are set up properly. The bottom clamp has 2 holes - my roll pin is in the bottom hole & it appears that I might get more blade in the clamps if I move the roll pin in the top hole. If this is the case should I just use a nail punch to "punch it out"? I'm afraid to put too much torque on the arm. It doesn't look like I can make an adjustment to the top clamp since the bottom hole is open on the bottom. Any advice sure would be appreciated since I can't find my operators manual & can't find one online. Thanks!!! |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,338
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scrollsawnoclu, don't use a punch to remove the roll pin. On my old Delta saw I used a C clamp, small bolt just a tiny bit smaller than the roll pin and a socket. Turn the C clamp forcing the roll pin out with the bolt into the socket. You can either push the pin all the way out or far enough to get a hold of it with pliers. Put it back in the same way. You don't want to be hammering on the side of the arm. Hope this is all understandable. Just holler if you need more help.
__________________ Mick, - Delta P-20 The future ain't what it used to be. |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member |
The top hole is for the pin to keep the clamp from rocking when you tight the blade in the clamp. To change the distance between the holders use the tension knob on the top arm of the saw. The flip tension lever is the quick relase, the knob sets the initial clamp distance. |
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| | #4 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
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Thanks so much for the quick replies. I think I understand the C clamp, bolt, & socket method for removing & installing the roll pin. Before I change the roll pin configuration I thought I'd attach a few pictures to verify my set up & describe the situation a bit more. The tension knob/lever on top only adjusts the distance by about a sixteenth of an inch if that (with the knob all the way down). I measured the blade & it's 5-1/8" long. When I put one end of the blade on the top of the bottom "holder" it extends about 3/8 inch "into" the top holder. That means I only have about 3/16 inch of each end of the blade in the holders. That sure doesn't seem like much. With it continually coming out of the holders during operation it seems like this may be the issue. Based on the pictures & my attempt to describe the situation - should I move the roll pin on the bottom holder from the bottom hole to the top hole to give me more "bite" in each holder? Or do you think that I have something wrong with the tension knob since it only moves the top holder up about 1/16 of an inch? PS - I only have 1 roll pin in the bottom holder - it sounds like I should have 2 in order to keep the clamp from rocking when I tighten the blade in the clamp Again - thanks a bunch for the help!!! |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member |
Hard to tell from the pictures but the knob should be moving the clamp at least 1/4" or more. I would say there is a big mushroom bur on the bottom of the knob that is keeping it from moving the distance it should. Take the knob out and check that. As for the second hole, a temporary pin goes in that hole to keep the clamp from swiveling while tightening the clamp. Then you pull the pin out to run the saw, the clamp should be able to swivel when the saw is running. |
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| | #6 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
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Thanks again for all the help. Based on your recommendations, I found that my tension bolt is sheared which is causing some problems. The biggest issue, however, was that the Blade Support (that moves up when you apply tension with the bolt) was stuck in the full up position. I was able to get it unstuck & applied some WD-40. It still binds but it's at least workable & I know what the problem is. I haven't been able to remove the roll pin for the Blade Support to clean everything in hopes of making it where it doesn't bind up on me (it's in there pretty tight - when using the clamp/socket/bolt I can't keep the bolt straight enough to apply pressure). If you have any other suggestions on removing this roll pin please let me know. Either way I'm to the point of being able to use the saw (hopefully without the blade coming out of the clamps). The blade now has about 1/2 inch in each clamp. Thanks a bunch!!! |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,338
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Try a shorter or flat head bolt and just push the roll pin out far enough to get a hold of it with pliers or vice grips.
__________________ Mick, - Delta P-20 The future ain't what it used to be. |
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