|
Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team. |
| | ||||||
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 |
| Lost Young Grasshopper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: new jersey
Posts: 25
|
so i just finished my first project on a 3/4" sanded hardboard and i just started a project on a 3/16" birch hard plywood. i keep having a problem where some of the plywood is breaking and chipping taking the first coat of board off. mainly in thin cut areas. Maybe im using the wrong type of wood i was using a new blade. so im curious what are good types of wood to use and how i can help stop this problem its frustrating to finish half a project then have this happen and its ruined
|
| | |
| | #2 |
| Lost Young Grasshopper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: new jersey
Posts: 25
|
also i noticed that the birch ply was a unfinished ply with a paper thin layer of birch on top if that helps
|
| | |
| | #3 |
| Craftsman & Designer |
For me, I do use birchplywood (bought from local lumber yard) on a lot of my projects, but I also use slabs of different woods as I have access to a tree trimming business that gives me all I want for free. I also have access to cedar, my uncle makes cedar post on his farm so he gives me the scrap. What I'm saying all this for is that, it is personal choice on the wood choice. From the way you are sounding about the "tear out" in your wood. It may be because you are using the wrong blade. When I choose a blade, I choose the blade by the thickness of the wood. For example you are using 3/16" I'd choose a blade with a bunch of teeth. Sorry, can't remember the blade numbers off hand. Also, not sure if you have a variable speed saw or not, if so play with your speed adjustment, I've found that sometimes if you either slow down the speed or even speed up will make a difference. I hope this gives you some direction in helping you. Another thing, try to get the finished plywood if you choose that type. For some reason I have better luck with that type better than I do with unfinished. Also, check around your town and see if they are any tree trimmers or even woodshops, they sometimes will either give you there scraps or sell them to you really cheap.
__________________ Chris The Wood Artist "Keep Scrolling Along" Free Patterns: www.myspace.com/_woodartist_ and http://thewoodartist.blogspot.com/ |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Sterling, AK Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 33
|
Breaking off the outer ply is usually caused by a blade with too few teeth and the teeth are too large. Same with a band saw or circular saw. One partial cure is to cover the back of your cuts with masking or painters tape, and to use a backing board. What blades are you using? |
| | |
| | #5 |
| Lost Young Grasshopper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: new jersey
Posts: 25
|
well the breaking is happening on thefront of the piece not the back
|
| | |
| | #6 |
| Craftsman & Designer |
Use Packing Tape and cover over the front, it will keep it from tear outs, plus will make your blade last longer as the tape will lubrcate the blade.
__________________ Chris The Wood Artist "Keep Scrolling Along" Free Patterns: www.myspace.com/_woodartist_ and http://thewoodartist.blogspot.com/ |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Senior Member |
Get yourself some better quality material to work with. Find yourself a supplier that sells baltic birch plywood.It is a far better plywood than the regular birch plywood you are trying now. There are more plies to the baltic birch, and the outer layers are thicker than that other stuff your fighting with.I wouldnt bother cutting prefinished wood, as once your done cutting, youd have to refinish it if you wanted finish in the fretwork parts. Combine that, with a good blade and practice, you should be cranking out great projects quickly.
__________________ Dale w/ yella saws |
| | |
| | #8 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 592
| Quote:
Can you tell us what kind of blade, tooth configuration and size you are using?
__________________ "I'm a white male, aged 18 to 49. Everyone listens to me! No matter how dumb my suggestions are." | |
| | |
| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,338
|
highdarkness, most birch plywood from the "Borg" stores the birch is nothing more than a veneer, as Dale said get some good BB plywood or Finnish birch plywood that has exterior glue. When cutting thin plywood I use a 28 t.p.i. 2/0 blade.
__________________ Mick, - Delta P-20 The future ain't what it used to be. |
| | |
| | #10 |
| teenage scroller Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: oklahoma
Posts: 48
|
Welcome to Scrollsawer! Another solution would be to use a cheap, easy to cut hardwood such as butternut or poplar. They are only about 4 or five dollars a bft and cut smoother and easier than plywoods.
__________________ Joe |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |