Free Standing puzzles

[Jim Rodman]

I have a question about cutting 3/4 Poplar free standing puzzles.
The reason that I am using poplar is for the harder grain structure compared to Pine as it is softer.
I am have tried FD-TC (1)(3)(5)
FD-XL (1)(3)
FD-SR (1)(3)(5)
My problem is that it takes so long to cut the (motor cycle) pattern out .
Is there a different blade that I could be using or is it the wood is to hard where pine would be softer and easier to cut?
jim from Ontario

[JimSawyer]

I've done a ton of these out of poplar. Pine will break too easily when played with. I use regular old Sears #5 blades without too much trouble. I couldn't tell you if it takes longer because it's been a long time since I've used pine, (which broke right away). The speed of your saw can make a difference. If your speed is set too fast, you won't get there any quicker, im fact it seems even slower. My only suggestion is to slow the blade down to just fast enough to cut through the wood at a comfortable speed.
Well there's my 2 cents...

[edward]

I have cut puzzles out of pine and popular, right now I use popular, mainely because I have a lot on hand. I generaly use a # 3 and #5 blade, and you have to adjust the speed , try on a scrap piece first and see what settings are right for you. Edward

[rja]

I have been cutting a lot of puzzles out of poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, and oak from 7/8" to 1" thick using FD Polar #5 blades. The #7 blades seem to leave a bit too large of a kerf and the #3 blades don't last very long in the harder woods. I have also tried FD Ultra Reverse blades but they seem a bit harder to control.

[lucky788scroller]

Yesterday I cut 4 dog puzzles out of 3/4th thick maple. I used a total of two blades to cut the four puzzles. I alternate between a #3 FD-TC and a #1 FD-TC without any problems. I do a couple of the longer cuts using the #1 , and the rest with a #3. These puzzles I am doing MUST stand up, so doing a couple cuts with a #1 and the rest with a #3 works out great. Practice and patience are key I think.

[sawdustus]

I generally use a #5 skip tooth blade to cut freestanding puzzles out of hardwood (poplar, maple, walnut, cherry, oak). It is a compromise between really tight kerfs (#2 for adult puzzles) and loose kerfs (#7 for small kid puzzles). I like the skip tooth design because it clears the kerf better than a RT blade. I use a sanding mop to get rid of the fuzzies that are generated and to gently and quickly round all the edges. Just my two cents.

george