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Old 07-13-2009, 03:56 PM   #11
Jim from Ontario
 
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Default Cutting 3/4

Yes Luck it wasn't until I posted the last one and went back to cutting the I through that cutting ply might be harded then solid woods.
I am going to try the same pattern in solid pine or popluer.
jim from Ontario
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:31 PM   #12
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Hi again Jim - just watch out if you use pine - try to use a piece with not too much grain otherwise you might find this also gives you problems of drift when hitting hard resiny grain after passing through softer wood. Also with poplar, what out for possible breakage on thinner pieces if you dont orient the grain correctly. Personally if i decided to make this out of solid wood I'd go for a hardish wood with fairly even grain so as to play safe and not risk breaking the smaller parts

Good luck!
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Old 07-14-2009, 01:50 AM   #13
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I've made all three out of cherry, blackwalnut and mahogany. They came out really well and sold rather fast. Another thing to remember - don't push the wood, just guide it. Sometimes that is easier said than done.

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Old 07-14-2009, 03:27 AM   #14
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Betty, Can you tell me how you sanded and finished your motorcycles?? It says to round them over with the flap sander. Uh, I have not quite got that technique down!!! I've had more flying parts!!! And what did you finish it with?? Thanks!!
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:05 PM   #15
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Or you could try the Olson Mach series #3 or any of their PGT blades, although the PGT will give you a bit loser puzzle.
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Old 07-14-2009, 02:20 PM   #16
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The problem with plywood is the type of glue used in the construction of the wood it varies form one manufacture to the next this causes differences in the hardness of the wood. Mike from mikes workshop advised me to use the Flying Dutchman TC (two way cut) blade on plywood as it is best adapted to deal with plywood’s. For 3/4" ply I would advise a #5 or #7 blade I have been using these blades for years cutting stacks of 4x4mm (19mm is 3/4") Christmas decorations with no problems I hope this helps.
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