Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

 * Browse over 200,000 posts.
 * Communicate privately with other scrollers from around the world.
 * Post your own photos or view from 7,000 user submitted images.
 * Gain access to exclusive scroll saw promotions offered by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts and Fox Chapel Publishing.

All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.

Go Back   Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board > Scroll Saw > Beginners Scroll Saw
Connect with Facebook

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-02-2009, 08:47 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Mick Walker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,335
Default

I never use anything other than glue for mitered joints unless it is 16" X 20" or larger, then I use bisquits. Miter joints if glued with a good wood glue should be stronger than the wood itself. I apply the glue to both sides then let dry for a few minutes (until the shine is gone) then apply a second coat and clamp, leaving it over night. The first coat soaks into the end grain. I use Titebond ll.
__________________
Mick, - Delta P-20

The future ain't what it used to be.
Mick Walker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 09:39 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
USMC1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Montgomery, NY
Posts: 126
Default

When I do 45s on my table saw I use a digital angle gauge to make sure the blade is at a perfect 45. When I am using my mitre gauge, I use the Mitre-set to set that to a perfect 45.

The mitre set works good as long as your blade runs parallel with the mitre slot, if it is off just a little bit your cut will also be off. The digital angle gauge works great; I used to avoid tilting my blade once I had it perfectly setup, now I move it all over with no worries, it always gives you 45 degrees in relation to the table of the saw.

King


You can get the digital angle gauge from rockler.
USMC1126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 10:54 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
ubgoofy2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 486
Default

VB, I have a couple of jigs from Shop Notes magazine & Wood magazine that are pretty simple to make, just not easy to explain here on the site. If you would like, I can copy them & email them to you. Would not be difficult to make.
I'm at ubgoofy2003@yahoo.com Perk
ubgoofy2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2009, 12:53 AM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,156
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ubgoofy2003 View Post
VB, I have a couple of jigs from Shop Notes magazine & Wood magazine that are pretty simple to make.....
Speaking of Shop Notes, and it's sister magazine WoodSmith......

They sure do put a lot of emphasis on using stop blocks and other other holding devices when making miter cuts.

The people who do lots of mainstream woodworking with power tools seem to agree the 1st steps in making really good miters is #1-tool alignment and #2-understanding a person cannot use finger pressure to overcome the forces at play when using a power tool with a 10" blade on a miter cut; stop blocks are needed to hold the wood.

And no, I cannot make satisfactory 45 degree cuts on my craftsman table saw, even with a WoodSmith jig (there are many, I only tried 2). Can get 'dang close, but not satisfactory.

Have you tried a touch up with 45 degree shooting board along with very sharp low angle block plane?

Phil
GrayBeard Phil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2009, 03:34 PM   #15
Filler
 
VB...'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 322
Default

OK as always this is why I love this site!!!

Mick Walker:
Thank you. I never thought of gluing it twice like you explained. I will definitly give it a try.

USMC1126:
I went on Rockler and they have several digital gauges. Which one would you recommend?

ubgoofy2003:
Your 100% right about the jigs I have seen some. I have even made a few. I wanted to know what people were finding helps them with their projects.

You folks rock thank you,
VB...
__________________
Tool of choice: DW 788, DW 735,

Aspire To Inspire Before You Expire.

If you don't stand behind our troops, PLEASE feel free to stand in front of them!
VB... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2009, 03:35 PM   #16
Filler
 
VB...'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 322
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrayBeard Phil View Post
Speaking of Shop Notes, and it's sister magazine WoodSmith......

They sure do put a lot of emphasis on using stop blocks and other other holding devices when making miter cuts.

The people who do lots of mainstream woodworking with power tools seem to agree the 1st steps in making really good miters is #1-tool alignment and #2-understanding a person cannot use finger pressure to overcome the forces at play when using a power tool with a 10" blade on a miter cut; stop blocks are needed to hold the wood.

And no, I cannot make satisfactory 45 degree cuts on my craftsman table saw, even with a WoodSmith jig (there are many, I only tried 2). Can get 'dang close, but not satisfactory.

Have you tried a touch up with 45 degree shooting board along with very sharp low angle block plane?

Phil
I'm afraid I'm lost. What do you mean by "Have you tried a touch up with 45 degree shooting board along with very sharp low angle block plane?"?
__________________
Tool of choice: DW 788, DW 735,

Aspire To Inspire Before You Expire.

If you don't stand behind our troops, PLEASE feel free to stand in front of them!
VB... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2009, 12:17 AM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,156
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VB... View Post
I'm afraid I'm lost. What do you mean by "Have you tried a touch up with 45 degree shooting board along with very sharp low angle block plane?"?
Ok, Here goes......You might already know much of this, sorry but I just wanted to cover the bases....

In general, Block Planes are hand held planes used by finish-carpenters to trim the end grain on wooden molding that went around interior doors and windows. This was back in the days of hand-cutting the trim work with back-saws and wooden miter boxes.

A regular block plane has the plane's iron (blade) bevel UP, and the blade sitting at about 20 to 22 degrees in reference to the plane's sole (bottom.) {aside: So called "bench" planes normally have the iron bevel DOWN.}

A Low Angle Block Plane has the blade sitting at about 12 to 14 degrees, again with the bevel UP. The low angle adds cost to the plane. The idea is to 'cut' the end grain instead of tearing out the wood fibers.

Stanley Tools, Low Angle Block Plane #12-960

You should be able to find a 12-960 at a local store. There are many other maker's some are very fine instruments that cost a lot of money. You can also find Low Angle block planes on the web: Woodcraft, Amazon, Lee Valley and other places.

The real key is a sharp blade. Specifically, make sure the back of the blade is dead flat; mirror finish. Then work on the bevel. Should take about 6 to 8 hours to sharpen a new out of the box Stanley plane; 4 hours just on the back alone. Google on how to sharpen a plane blade and water-stones. Lots of video. Also, look up "scary sharp" on Internet. You may also have to spend some time on the sole of the plane to make sure the toe, mouth and heel are also dead flat on a Stanley.

Shooting board:

A shooting board is a jig (Fixture?) that you make yourself. You spend lots of effort to make the shooting board very accurate; not all that hard but it may take you a couple of times trying to get it as close to perfect as you can.

Best intro I have found on the web is the link below for a PDF download:
Popular Woodworking Shooting Board PDF
This is a large PDF file, and it really does not get to the meat of the article until about page 10 or 11. Plans for building your own start much later into the document.

Don't get hung up with the details on the above link's plans, YOUR shooting board can be made much simpler. Several other web sites offer just plans for making your own 45 degree shooting board but no explanations on how to use them.

I hope this helps.

Phil

PS: I hope it is OK with the Moderators that I linked to a general mainstream woodworking magazine.
GrayBeard Phil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
USMC1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Montgomery, NY
Posts: 126
Default

The gauge that I got was the wixey, it was 39.99. Thats the only one I have tried but it works great for me.

King
USMC1126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2009, 06:56 PM   #19
Filler
 
VB...'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 322
Red face Thank you folks!!!

GrayBeard Phil(Phil): I understand thank you. I have a few magazines and I was reading about very similar jig. Thanks to you it makes a lot more sense.

USMC1126 (King): I will order it today.




Your the best!!!
VB...
__________________
Tool of choice: DW 788, DW 735,

Aspire To Inspire Before You Expire.

If you don't stand behind our troops, PLEASE feel free to stand in front of them!
VB... is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:32 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.0