blade suggestions for 'Very' hard wood.

[breakie]

G'day fellow sawdusters....

I want to scroll concentric circular patterns in ( say) about 1" _vary_ hard wood..... It's Mulga and Gidgee from closer to the centre of Australia than where I am..... edge of the desert, in fact !!

Aborigines have used these woods since 'forever' for tools , weapons and implements. It's _very_ hard.

I want to make some ( basically ! )concentric circular wood puzzles in 'rounds' cut from the end of a few logs of these woods I've recently acquired.

Now I'm a brand spanker in this 'scrolling' !! )--( like less than a week !!)--. What blades ( teeth, number, type and configuration, blade type ( my saw takes both pinned and pinless but is only 125 watts) and I've seen different brands recommended on the forum... but these mightn't be available down here in Oz..... However , the physical attributes of the blades that might be best will giove me something to 'go on' when I have a look around for what's 'there'.

No doubt, especially with my low 'saw power', it'll be a long sawing job..... but I want a fine cut because the circular patterns with varying tapers are best with a 'close fit'.

Looking forward to any words, from anyone... )

...regards...

.... breakie. ( not necessarily related to my blade usage, -I hope! Hehheheh)

[greatdane2]

I have cut Yew rounds into fret work. It is very hard and sanding is a night mare to do, but cutting it with a #5 skip tooth was easy. Hope that helps.

Alan.

[JohnB]

G'day Ray,
#5 Skips are a pretty good choice as Alan has suggested.
I've found that when cutting our timbers, you whack a new blade in and and cuts like a hot knife through butter for about an inch then starts to slow rapidly.

I've had most luck with the Olson Precision ground blades when cutting hard timber.

I get my blades from the states as postage is pretty minimal when it comes to these, just don't get caught up with the other goodies that are on offer

I now get them by the gross, and they are cheaper than anywhere in Oz, including the postage.

The 3 types that I use are:
Olson PG "Wooden Teddy bear"
Pegas "Bens"
Flying dutchman "Mike"

[Tor]

I don't know that saw power is necessarily that important, as long as it doesn't start bogging down. I've cut 2" end grain Ipe on my Craftsman that has about the same power IIRC. The blades are more important, and I think John covered the three big names well. I don't think Sloan's ships very reasonably, and I'm not entirely sure they even ship outside the States these days.

Tor

[breakie]

G'day John.....

Such _Great_ sites.... Thanks for those ref's. Most excellent!

I've just watched 'Mike's' video on ( his) making jigsaws..( I was particularly interested in his cutting 'technique').. interesting that he 'freehands' them while respecting the image lines.( no prior plan )..... and he's so absolutely relaxed in cutting these intricate patterns.... What an outstanding Craftsman !!! He makes his processing look so easy. I suppose his 'ease' is something to aim for, over time, eh !

I checked your recommended blades and I'll get a gross or so of the #5 'skip tooths' that you and Alan recommended. ---- ( Hey-- And don't the prices put our "Oz prices" in the shameful basket, eh.!!!!!!!!! I'll get _far_ superior blades for unbelievably far less $$$$ !!!)

I reckon if 'they' can ship stuff successfully out to where you are in the far western Desert Country... then they can ship anywhere !!! Hehheh

Thanks again, John. I'll drop a word when I've got and tried my first packet.

... Ray.

[breakie]

Hey, Alan & Tor....

Thanks for your words which add to John's directions. ( I still can't believe the relative blade price difference between here in Oz and the 'onliners' that have been recommended! )

I really appreciate the info.... ( _ALL_ of the stuff I've been reading, in fact !! )...).. that this forum has. ...... I can see that I need another lifetime to begin scratching the surface, though !!! Hehheh.

*** Perhaps one ( more ) ) quick question ( while your here, Doctors ) Hahhahha! )........ My saw takes either pinned or pinless blades. One advantage ( I 'think' with my less-than-a-week 'experience' ) of the pinned blades is their ease of replacement... like around fifteen seconds or so !!!.... Yet, a significant number have favoured 'pinless' blades..., which, on my saw, might take several minutes to replace....
... Maybe someone could comment on this ( though I'm sure that this topic has been covered a million times with earlier 'beginners'--- so thanks for your tolerance and patience! )

Thanks again..... us fledglings _do_ flap around a bit, don't we !! )

... Ray.

[Tor]

Yes, where usable pinned blades are often quicker to replace. Plain end blades, on the other hand, come in many more types and are available much smaller (in theory rip a pinned blade the narrow way smaller) and are indispensable for fine work. Adding a hand screw to one of your clamps is something you will want to do. Both clamps is nice, but not required, as for fretwork you only replace one end frequently.

Tor

[Forester21]

The guys answered your previous questions well. I'm going to add a suggestion if I may - since you have only been cutting a week or so, you may want to do a "practice" run of your pattern on a thinner, and softer wood. Maybe a 3/4" pine or such just to get the hang of how it is going to cut. Then move on to your harder wood.
good luck! Welcome to the board! And we love to see pictures of others work!!

[Wood Dog]

breakie.....not only can you get smaller blades in the non pin end blades, it is much easier to thread the blade into the drilled hole in the wood without that little bar.

[merlin7]

Using pinless blades and taking a couple of minutes to change them can give you a little break that is just long enough to break up the kinks in the back and legs. So I find anyway

Merle