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07-05-2008, 02:30 PM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
Posts: 457
| Sanding Question I've just recently completed my first three projects and was wondering what experienced scroller’s use to touch up the inside cuts on their projects, or is it that once you get the hang of this wonderful craft, it isn't required. When I get done, I have all of these fine wood hairs on the bottom of my piece. I've read somewhere that you can use flame to get rid of them but I really don't want to try that just yet. I'm using mostly 2R Olsen blades. I've also purchased some of those sanding strips that attach to my scroll saw, and while they are fine at getting to the larger areas, they don't get into the small places.
Any suggestions, or critiques welcomed...  |
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07-05-2008, 03:38 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin
Posts: 4,195
| Well, you are kinda right. Experience plays a good sized role in the amount of post cutting sanding required.Not as much though as the actual blade selection itself.It does seem though, that by you using a 2R blade, you shouldnt have a great deal of what we call 'fuzzies' on the underside of your cuts.The R after the 2 on the blade size indicates it has reversed teeth.When the blades mounted right, you should have a couple of those reversed teeth pointing up into the wood above the table, which should eliminate a lot of the fuzzies.When you have a lot of them still hanging on the wood, flip your work over and sand the backside, that alone should eliminate most of them.There will always be a few stragglers, an exacto knife works well on those.I have never used the sanding strips, never had a need for them, and like you said, for the tight areas they are pretty much useless.I have used a fingernail emery board at times to, as well as thin strips ripped from sheet sandpaper.Check to see how your blade is installed, chances are its a little low in the holders.Also, look up Mikes Workshop dot com , and he will send you a few blade samples that you can try out that I'm sure you will like, both in quality and in cost. Your photos dont show up for me, so I cant really critique them, but as long as they actually resemble something (even if not what they were intended to resemble), Id say your doing pretty good!!!
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Dale w/ yella saws
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07-05-2008, 05:08 PM
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#3 | | Custom Firewood Maker
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Carson City,NV
Posts: 59
| When i do fretwork I use the sanding strips that are normally used for turning pens ( I think its called a turner's pack".
I just tear off a small piece of 400 or 600 grit and just knock off any fuzzies that may be hanging on the back. I do use reverse tooth blades so this seem to minimize these.
Dan |
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07-05-2008, 05:11 PM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
Posts: 457
| I can't seem to get the picture thing right. I'm still working on that one. I sent then to Web Shots and copied the URL from there, but they didn't show up???
Thanks for the info..
Mike |
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07-05-2008, 05:22 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC. Canada
Posts: 1,733
| I buy sandpaper in rolls, 3" by whatever. It has a good cloth backing that is very stiff, so I can cut small strips in the size I need to get into small places.
The House of Tools here carry it, It is almost like Emery cloth.
Alan. |
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07-05-2008, 05:31 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Saltspring Island B.C. Canada
Posts: 564
| Mike . Steve Good has a video on making your own sanding sticks . Scrollsaw Workshop .
Roger |
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07-05-2008, 05:51 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
Posts: 457
| I still need help attaching pics. I tried the search, but got Vcode info, Any suggestons?
Mike |
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07-05-2008, 06:47 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
Posts: 457
| Another picture attempt...  [/IMG] |
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07-05-2008, 06:51 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hemet, CA
Posts: 354
| I also use the reverse tooth blades and that helps cut down on the fuzzies. When I'm done I usually hit the back of the project with 150 grit on a palm sander (using a rubber non-slip pad helps alot!) to remove most of the fuzzies. Anything left I will go over with a set of diamond grit jewlers files I picked up at Harbor Freight really cheap. Also, if you do stack cutting you shouldn't have as much to sand off on the top layers.
__________________ Jim DeWalt DW788 & Dremel 1680 |
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07-05-2008, 08:12 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 871
| Mike, I use reverse blades and still get some "fuzzies". I use the torch method which you will want to practice on some scraps first. Turn the torch down to its lowest setting and pass it over all the fuzzies and they just light up and disappear. Keep the flame moving if you miss some you can always come back to them. Stay away from very thin, delicate pieces as they will disappear also. I mark them with a red pen ahead of time so I can avoid them. I use a set of tiny files for the stubborn places.
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Mick, - Delta P-20
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