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Old 07-05-2008, 08:21 PM   #11
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Thanks Jim and Mick, I did pick up a set of small files today at Woodcraft, only not so cheap...$33.00 but our HF is clear across town another 30 miles each way so probably cheaper in the long run because of the gas "situation".

I'm getting ready to start another project, two Belted Kingfishers from a magazine I picked up. I'm going to use 1/4 BB x2 to see what happens.
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Old 07-06-2008, 03:54 AM   #12
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At some point, I purchased some sanding sticks from Woodcraft. They are about 1/4" strips of sand paper looped and wrapped around a plastic formed stick. The strips are great for getting inside cuts as well as cutting apart and make a sanding ribbon. You can even fold them in half and clamp them into the saw (they don't break like the scroll sanders). I have also recently found them cheaper at Hobby Lobby.

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Old 07-06-2008, 04:09 AM   #13
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Picture try


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Old 07-06-2008, 04:20 AM   #14
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I use reverse tooth blades also, totally love them. I sand lightly front and back after finishing the cutting and then fire up the blow torch if needed

Tom
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Old 07-06-2008, 04:23 AM   #15
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I can't blow these pics up but what i can see looks real good.
Alan & Chance.
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:19 PM   #16
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Same here, I cant biggerize the pictures, and what I can see looks great. You did grab yourself a couple pretty intricate patterns to start with, and I'd say you done great with em. Especially the hummingbird, not muchroom for error on that one.
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Old 07-06-2008, 04:54 PM   #17
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For the fuzzies

A reverse tooth blade does help greatly, but not completely. I usually roll up little pieces of sanding cloth and use them. However, I have been sawing for 13 years and on a recent piece tried the blow torch and WOW, this is certainly the way from now on.

I use a small cook's torch (I have been using it on creme brulee for years) and just lightly pass it over the back of the piece. There are one or two tiny little scorch marks, but on the back that doesn't show at all when you add the backer.

I must admit, I let hubby do it first (I could then blame him if my hours of work went up in flame). Once he was successful I took over and cannot for the life of me see why I had not tried it before.

Some woods do leave you with raggier edges than others. However, your first cuttingx look superb (from what I can see) and if you manage to finish them properly they will look perfect.

Good luck

Sue
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Old 07-06-2008, 04:54 PM   #18
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I use a dremel with a flap sander on very low speed to get rid of fuzzies. The top edges of the wheel fit fairly well in tight areas, and keeping the speed low helps prevent breaking off fragile pieces. Any fuzz left after sanding get removed with a needle file or exacto knife.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:33 PM   #19
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I forgot to mention that you should place a flat piece of wood against the front side of your cutting when using the torch method. This will keep the flame from the good side.
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:16 AM   #20
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Thanks all, really good suggestions here, I can see the credit card getting a workout this coming week for more supplies.

Mike
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