Glues

[BRG]

Hi folks! I'm finally off the sick list and back to scrolling! I have been frustrated with some of my glue joints in that they seem to leave a film behind that will not accept stain or stand out a lighter shade under clear coat. I have sanded the joints after glueing to where I couldn't see any residue, yet when the finish dries, the defect shows. I've used elmer's wood glue and weld bond white glue with similar results. What am I doing wrong !!

Bonnie (BRG)

[JohnB]

G'day Bonnie,
Good to see you back.
Sanding PVA is a bit of a problem as it tends to roll rather than lift.
What I do is wipe the joint with a damp cloth while the glue is still wet, this leaves a minimum of sanding and clean up. Another method is to scrape the glue of the joint with a cabinet scraper.

[lucky788scroller]

Change glues. For fretwork items like clocks and such, Ive had great luck using Aleens quick dry tacky glue. I am a glueaholic.I always seem to use way to much, and get a lot of squeezeout. With the Aleens (silver bottle or label), after everything is clamped I use a straw to remove squeezeout. Push the end of the straw down into the joint and it bends to get right in the corner, and push it down that gluejoint, and your excess glue will go up inside the straw. If the glue is already drying, I use a small flat screwdriver with a thin blade to scrape off the excess before its fully cured. Then, a little sanding after its all dry, and I dont have much problem with finishing. Dale

[BRG]

Thanks for the imput. I will definitely change glues and try the tacky glue. I spent hours making a bowl / candle stick pedestal set only to have the glue joints show on the bowl. GRRRR.

Since I'm asking advice -- what is the best way to glue 15 degree angles? This bowl has 8 pieces, bottom cut at a 45 to mate with the base, and the sides of each piece are at 15 degrees. I ended up using hot glue as I couldn't figure out how to maintain the angles with the slow setting wood glues.

[Wood Dog]

I made a carousel from Diana Thompson's Compound Creations book, and her advise to gluing six 22 1/2° pieces of wood was to "lay down the pieces of wood face up in a row. Tape them together with masking or packing tape then turn over, and apply glue to the area including the last piece. Pull the pieces into a circle and tape the last piece together. Place rubber bands around the assembly and allow to dry."
It worked great for me.........good luck.

[ragiarn]

You might try spraying 1-2 coats of sanding sealer or shellac before gluing. This prevents the glue form seeping into the wood. Once pieces are glued wash seam with water to remove excess. Shellac will accept either water based or oil based finishes.

Doc

[R.Edwards]

I just gotta through in my 2 cents here. If you apply shellac or sanding sealer to the raw wood you'll have the same problem. The wood coated with these "sealers" will not accept stain like the surrounding raw wood.
The best solution I've found is to "pick" off what you can with a sharp screwdriver or straw and then take a damp rag drapped over a flat screwdriver tip and wipe down the remaining glue squeeze out. Go over the area several times with a clean portion of the rag. This should leave you with only a little grain raising to sand out with 220 or higher grit paper.
Ralph

[earlinjax]

Depending on the type of joint, you can also put painters tape along the joint so the squeeze out goes on the tape. Then peel the tape off.

Earl

[lucky788scroller]

use the tape method mentioned above for gluing the segments together.Once you connected them all, scrape and damp rag your squeezeout, and place it flat on a surface covered with a piece of wax paper in case you missed a bit of glue, and let it dry. Dale

[Mick Walker]

Bonnie, use less glue, apply a light coat of glue let it dry a few minutes then apply another light coat and clamp.