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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 13
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Probably a silly question, so thats why its in the begginers bit But the blade that came with my scrollsaw has broken and im not sure what TPI it was. Im cutting 6mm Russian birch plywood.Lots of internal bits and corners. What TPI blade should i get? Thank yo for your time |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 895
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TPI = Teeth per inch. That, however, is probably not the primary statistic you should go by in selecting blades. Suggestion: Go to Mikesworkshop.com and look it over and then call Mike in S Dakota. He can really steer you in the right direction - and sell you some truly high quality blades. Also, check other thread regarding blades on this forum. And - always - have phun.........Carter |
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| | #3 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 13
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i don't think i can phone him since i live in England ![]() Really all im looking for is a blade that wont split or burn the wood... and on ebay im given the choice between 10,14,21,24 TPI blades. I was given the impression the TPI you want to use depended on the thickness of the wood... :S Its all so confussing for me :P |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Greenfield Indiana
Posts: 1,531
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You can email Mike from his webpage.
__________________ Delta P-20 & Q-3 Ever notice that anyone going slower than you is an idiot, but anyone going faster than you is a maniac? |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gainesville, Florida
Posts: 352
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Try this page What Blade Should I Use? and see if that helps. TPI doesn't always mean something significant, since I find my middle-of-the-road blades, the #5, has 13 TPI, and so does the #1 blade, which I use for small inside cuts. You probably don't need me to tell you to be careful what you buy on Ebay--some of that stuff is pure garbage.
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: california
Posts: 6,297
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Hi there Darkling. I will give this a try, it is my understanding, that TPI, is the amount of teeth in a inch of blade. and the size blade is the thickness and debth of the blade. most blades comes with the same amount of teeth. in differnt #s i mean. like a #2 has 24 tpi, and so does a #5. so on so on. this is what I go buy. I do small fretwork, that means. alot of wholes in the wood. lace like. and I normaly do 1/4 inch thick wood. sorry I don't know what 6 mm is. I will go look that up. ok. but I use a #2 or a #0/2 blade. and a skip tooth has lots of teeth. like 24 of more or less. and that gives the smoothes cuts. but slow cutting. and the same #2 or #3. can come in less teeth per inch. this cuts much faster, becouse the the amount of teeth in the wood and the same time is less. there for carring out the saw dust faster. and not getting so hot. I find if you are burning your wood, you just might be going to fast, for the blades you are useing. they just can't cut as fast as you. so I would say slooooow down. if your woold is thick, and mostly it it is hard wood. say like the differance between oak an pine. that is also a probleam. oak is so hard. and take a meaner blade. or a slower speed. my favorite blade is a preshion grownd. blade. they are very sharp. and a 13 tpi, is pretty good for me. but they are very sharp, and can cut up a storm. but as a begginger. I started out with skip tooth. that would be lots of tpi. on 1/4 to 3/8 s wood. thicker than that. you would wont to go to at least a #5 or #7 or even a #9 blade. but they are harder to turn in tight corners, and y shapes. that is doeabale also. but harder. and slower. remmember the TPI, is only the teeth per inch in the wood. not the size of blade. just keep praktising. it will get easyer. and you will find your own favorit. I forgot to add about revers teeth, you don't need to use them at all. but , when you get better. you might wont to try them. they are all the same blades. but with a revers set of teeth on the bottome of the blades. like 7 teeth or so.going up, toward the other teeth that come up from the bottom. to make a clean cut. thats great. for it take less sanding on the back side. but not nessasary, to do the work. hope this help;s your friend Evie
Last edited by minowevie; 03-13-2008 at 12:32 AM. |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: california
Posts: 6,297
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Ok, I just have to add this, I am a ebay juky. and to tell you the truth, I have never been scrued there, as long as you are cairfull. but ass far as blades go. if the ones you have looked at are flying dutchmon. that would be mikes blades. and you might get them cheeper from him. at his web sight. you can trust him completely. and he is always willing to help out. there is lots of great blade sellers out there. if you would like some more pm me ok. but you can 't go rong, or cheaper than Mikes. your friend Evie
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| | #8 | |
| Newly Customized Moose | Quote:
__________________ Ian Scrolling with a Dewalt 788 | |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
Posts: 3,092
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Ok, Here is another site for great blade information. Sloans has the Olson chart in PDF format that is a useful refference no matter who's blades you end up buying. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/PDF/blade%20chart.pdf
__________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can" Proud Member of the Long Island Scrollsaw Association |
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| | #10 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11
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Im in South Africa. Mike and myself communicated over email and he was an incredible help. I have just placed my second order with him. Like he says on his site, quality is when the customer comes back, not the product. Give him a try |
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