best blades for puzzles?

[Mr.J]

What size of blades is the best for cutting out puzzles? Sorry for so many questions.

[SNAPPER]

Do not be sorry for asking questions. For me it depends on the thickness and type of wood. I have been cutting puzzles from 3/4" oak, maple, walnut, ash, pine. For the softer woods I like to use #2/0, as it leaves a tighter fitting puzzle. For the harder woods I am using a #2 reg tooth. I also prefer a blade that is not to agressive.
Happy Scrolling
Dean

[Carter-Johnson]

Hey, J......The word "puzzles" can be interpreted two primary ways: 1) children's puzzles made usually from thick (1/2" or more) wood and often depicting animals or 2) regular "jigsaw" puzzles like I make, for which 2/0 blades are best.

For answers to some of your questions, check out my Puzzle Instructions at:

http://wmyoung.proboards107.com/inde...ead=1173906092

Happy to help any way I can.........Carter

[3_M]

Here is a video about Carter cutting a puzzle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQDlGUhVom4

Mike

[lucky788scroller]

And there ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ is a good place to find the puzzle blades . Dale

[GrayBeard Phil]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

.. Sorry for so many questions...

Hey, ask away. Gives me a reason not to do some of my house chores today.

The single most important thing to me with choosing a blade for puzzles, is a blade that I don't have to go back and clean up any cuts. No fuzzes on bottom of cut, and walls of kerf very smooth. Any touch up with a file or sandpaper will just make things worse in my experience. Cut Once, and be done.

For my use and my saw, I have found the tooth configuration of two teeth, and a skip, AKA double tooth-skip design, with hardened steel teeth to be a good choice for clean kerf walls, and a few reverse teeth at the bottom of the blade to clean up the fuzzes on the bottom. Just for example of what I am talking about, the Flying Dutchman PSR line of blades. Other makers of blades make similar blade geometries.

Aside: other like a high tooth count of a regular blade, and no reverse teeth to keep the work piece from "POPing" if the wood gets caught by a reverse tooth.

I don't recommend a spiral designed blade for puzzles. I don't recommend double skip tooth design which is mostly for stack cutting, or thick wood over 1/2 inch.

The second most important is the width of the kerf. This is a trade off, and a decision you must make for each and every puzzle: who is the intended person this puzzle is made for. Child of 5 to 8 years old might want a wide Kerf from a #5 blade. A child of 9 might appreciate the add difficulty of a puzzle cut with a #3 or #1 blade. (Thinner the kerf, the added difficulty in assembly.) Late teens and Adults can deal with #00 (or short hand notation: 2/0) blade. Tri-focal glasses wearing senior citizens, my choice is a #1 size blade.

If you are going after an adult 'puzzle enthusiast' with a difficult puzzle, by all means, go for special "puzzle blades" with their very high tooth count.

HTH
Phil

[lucky788scroller]

Phil, your descriptions and information is priceless.Long winded is good, especially when its full of info like you provide. Thank you for your long winded replies, they are always worthwhile. Dale