Blade cutting my throat

[GrayBeard Phil]

Thank-you Suz for that clarification. Plastic does make my prior post moot.

No, you should not need to use plyers, if the manual didn't so state.

As long as you understand there are two tensions, one to clamp the blade into the blade holders, and one to apply tension (trying to strech the blade to be longer). Since you read the instructions, I am sure you do understand this and have set up your saw correctly.

Therefore, I wil stop and let someone who owns a saw like yours pick up where I jumped in.

Phil

[Rick H]

Suz if you want me to look at your saw I can if you bring it over here. While you are here you can try most of the other saws on the market , I have about all of them. I am in Grimes so not far from you.
You should not have to use pliers on the clamps to get them tight. I wonder if the table is not bolted on in the right place, being centered on the blade before tightening the bolts.
I am sure you will enjoy scrolling once you figure out the basics of how to do it.

[workin for wood]

I'm totally unfamiliar with the way that saw works too. You shouldn't use pliers, we can all sure agree with that.

Any chance you are going to the midwest scroll saw show? I think Iowa isn't that far, but not sure on that. It's first friday and saturday in august...just do a search in yahoo. You can throw the saw in your trunk and bring it along. I'll show you how to use it, or you will find many others there as well that can help. They also have some classes you can take. Reading is great, but you can't beat a few minutes of hands on teaching. Sometimes the obvious problem is right in front of you and you just can't see it.

And I know classes cost money, but if you are desperate and can't afford it, someone will still help you, especially if you have your own saw.

[workin for wood]

ah...we cross posted. You can't beat that offer Sue. Rick is the expert, just check out his website and you'll see what I mean.

[keithmc]

I started out with a Dremel 16" VS. It was not the model you are talking about. However, I had the same problem you are talking about. I called Dremel and the person I talked to there said it was due to not enough tension and etc. They were very nice and sent me a replacement plate. Over time I came to realize for me I was feeding the wood into the saw with too much force. This caused the back of the blade to rub against the plate. This led to a grouve. To me it seemed if there was not enough space between the back of the blade and the plate. My solution was to cut a little v out of the plate behind the blade, make sure I let the saw do the cutting and that I was not pressing the blade to one side or the other. Seemed to work for me.
Hope this helped.
Keith

[Suz]

Wow!!! I am so impressed with all of you that are so willing to help. Rick, you responded to my email the other day, and I had no idea you wre so close!! That is so cool!

I am off today. Rick what are your hours? I would love to have you look at it, and peruse your shop!!

Suz

[Rick H]

I'll be around all day call me and let me know when you are planning to stop in. 515-986-4185

[ThCube]

Suz,

I had the same problem when I first started using my saw. But with time it does get better. Now I don't even touch the throat plate anymore. I can't really tell you what I am doing different now then what I did back then, but it does get easier. Don't give up!! The plates are replaceable once you get the hang of it!!

Terry

[Rick H]

Well Suz stopped by today and I think the problem has been fixed. The thumbscrew and the anvil screw on the blade clamps needed to be sanded flat. Both were cupped like a normal screw would be on the ends and of course that gave no surface for the clamp to grip the blade fully.

[Scrollhead]

Way to go Rick.

Scrollhead