3 questions

[jenni765]

Hi everybody.
1. Please some advise on following a cutting line, I am hopeless.
2. Why does wood sometimes burn a bit?
3. Does a router need to be bolted to a work bench or can it free stand and be used?

Sorry I am so new to all this, and I love it, mistakes and all, but so need to get better at it.

[Gill]

Hi Jenni

Your problems cutting straight lines aren't at all unusual amongst newbies, so don't worry - just practice!

Use a good quality blade rather than one of those available from the DIY sheds - most of us here use brands such as Olsen, Pegas, Flying Dutchman, Pebeo, Niqua... the list goes on and there may be others. Nevertheless, try a brand that other scrollers use successfully and see how you get on. Different blades suit different scrollers so you might have to do a bit of hunting. At least you'll be getting more practice in while you're trying out different blades .

No matter which blade you use, you'll find it has a slight bias. This is because the manufacturing process leaves a slight burr on the right hand side of the blade. As a result, the blade will have a natural tendency to wander slightly to the right. As time passes you'll compensate for this track naturally by feeding wood into the blade at a slight angle, not directly from the front. However, it takes a bit of getting used to when you first start out. It could be that you're having difficulties cutting a straight line because you're presenting the wood straight instead of just slightly at an angle.

When you're cutting, try not to look at the point where the blade meets the pattern line. Instead, look at a point a little further along the line and cut towards it. It's inevitable that you'll wander from the line when you first start using a scroll saw but don't try to get back onto the line too quickly or you'll end up with lots of noticeable bumps. It's a bit like driving a car; learner drivers have a tendency to over-correct their steering.

All wood burns are caused by the friction of a blade which has been in contact with the wood for too long. If you're using a blade which has been cutting for too long and lost its sharpness, it will not be cutting efficiently enough to let it move through the wood quickly. In this case you need to change your blade. Most scrollers find that blades only last 20 - 30 minutes, some even less than this. It could also be that you're using an inappropriate type of blade for the sort of wood you're cutting. A very fine blade with close set teeth on a 44mm piece of wood is always going to struggle, and when a blade doesn't make progress heat builds up, scorching the wood. Another common cause of wood burns is trying to make turns that are too tight for the blade you're using.

Not all scrollers will agree with what I'm going to say, but my own experience has led me to conclude that the biggest enemy of a sharp blade is heat. When a blade gets hot, it quickly loses its cutting edge. This is one of the reasons why I like to operate my saw at a much slower speed than most other scrollers and feed my wood into the blade very gently. I let the blade do the cutting. Surprisingly, my progress isn't much slower than when I saw at high speed and my blades last a heck of a lot longer.

Something else you can do to protect your blades is cover the top of your wood with lo-tack masking tape such as the blue tape which is available from DIY sheds. This tape has a lubricant on its surface (which is why you can unroll the tape) and the lubricant transfers to the blade as you cut through it. It doesn't leave any trace on your wood.

Finally, routers. They can be used either freehand or mounted to a table. When they are mounted to a table, they are normally inverted underneath it so that the cutting bit protrudes upwards through the table. This gives more control over setting the cutting depth. Routers are classified according to their maximum collet size - 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2". The 1/2" routers tend to be too big to be used freehand so they are normally mounted under a table. As with scroll saw blades, the quality of router bits can vary. Don't be tempted by cheap sets of router bits made in China - they have an alarming propensity to break in use and the cutting edge isn't very good either. Instead, use a reputable brand such as Wealden, Titman or even Trend, although Trend is rather pricey.

I'm sure I've missed some details out but hopefully there's enough info here to address those 3 simple questions .

Gill

[Andy]

Good answers Gill!! Nothing I can add from here. LOL

Andy

[GrayBeard Phil]

Keep your wrist and the plam of your hands off the saw's table. Use your entire lower arms to move the project. Takes practice. This is an eye-hand type of thing. Keep at it and you will get better.

Phil

[Woodbutcher68]

Your router question puzzles me, especially about freestanding. DO NOT stand a router on it's top on a bench and use it! That's an accident waiting to happen. You need two hands to control a unmounted router, that's why they have two handles. Some routers have a cutoff switch on the top which won't let you stand it on it's top, with good reason.

[FRETDUST]

Hi Jenni
Welcome to our form. Gill pretty much covered everything really well. Another reason your wood might be burning is that the wood may have a small cup in it. In other words the wood is not totally flat. Hope this helps.

Steve in Mi.

[jenni765]

Thank you everybody. I think the blade changing could be an answer. Glad I now have a good excuse to practice much more. I know nothing about routers at all, which was why I asked, I have never even seen one. I only have a cheap Titan scroll saw that takes pinned blades, can I get the good blades you people use with pins to fit my saw?

[guitarman]

Great work Jill, I learned a thing or two. David

[Mick Walker]

jenni765, I would suggest that if you don't know anything about routers don't try using one until you know how as they can be a very dangerous tool to use. There are several places to purchase pinned blades here in the States but the shipping to England would probably be more than the cost of the blades. PM me if you would like to know where to get them. Practice makes perfect with your scroll saw.

[jo440]

You've been getting great info so far, girl. Here's something I've learned that may help. Tension of the blade is very important when trying to stay on the line. A little looseness in the blade will cause it to wander and is very frustrating. Make sure it pings when you get it tightened. I'm sure you've heard that already. Also, different woods have very different grain characteristics. Your blade will want to follow the grain in the wood. It's the path of least resistance. Try using some baltic birch plywood to practice on. The different layers of plywood run in different directions and your blade will want to wander less. Then when you get better at it, you can go on to some of the woods with more pronounced grains. As you've been told, the only way to learn to stay on the line is to practice. We all start out with the same problems you are having.
As for routers. In general, we females don't have the strength in our hands that men do. If you want a router that is friendlier than the full size routers, weighs less, and is easier to use, get a palm router. They are smaller and lighter, and aren't nearly as intimidating, either. They use the regular router bits, the 1/4 inch size. They used to be called laminat trimmers and in some places they still are. I just bought a Bosch Palm Router (laminate trimmer) and I love it. You hold it in your hand to use it. Look on the net and you will find some I'm sure.
Keep trying, don't give up.
Jo B.