Stroping Compound?

[Cut_Fingers]

Hey Gang,

I have a question regarding stroping compounds. I've heard you all talk about Yellow, Green, Red & maybe black (not sure about this one)

I'm assuming there is a difference between them? Or it may just be individual preference. Can some of you enlighten me.

Also, where do I get it? If at wally-world or a hobby shop, what secctions of the store do I look in?

Thanks for your help!
Jim

[Donna_T]

Hello Jim,
It may be an oversimplification, but the different colors relate to the level of abrasiveness in the compound. *You can get a generic white stropping compound at most lumberyards and farm supply stores (if you live in the country/small town like me.) *It works fairly well on a leather strop or wheel. *

At the other end of the spectrum is the red, jewelry compound, referred to as rouge. *It will put a highly polished *finish on metal--but not necessarily an extra sharp finish. *

Personally, I prefer the yellow stuff. *I'm sure it has a name but that has long since escaped my memory. *I got mine from a carving supplier/catalogue (I saw it in their catalogue, but found them at a carving show before I had a chance to order it from them.) *Check with Rick at Litl Shavers to see if he carries it. *It really seems to aid the sharpening process and puts a decent shine on the metal (less drag.)

I use it on my flat strop, my shaped strop, and the leather stropping wheel on my power sharpener system. *I'm by no means an expert on sharpening, but that's my 2 cents.

Donna T

Oh yeah, it's usually back by the chisels, saws, etc. in the tool section. I've never seen stropping compound at Walmart, but I've never looked for it there either.

[AlArchie]

Check in the tool section in most decent hardware stores near the wire wheels and buffing wheels. You will probably find three grades (grits) of abrasive compounds, jewelers rouge (red) at .5 microns, brown Tripoli compound around 1 to 1.5 microns and a white compound at around 1.5 to 3 microns depending onthe mfg. There are several other 'colors' out there that don't have a regularly assigned abrasive size, and these are usually specialty items made for carving, or polishing specific metals to a specific lustre. Some have the wax carrier in softer compounds that load onto hand strops easier, and others are in hard sticks that work well on power buffs. Grit size is usually irrelevant because even the coarser white sticks will put a fine polished edge on your blades. Usually the type of compound is a matter of personal preference and availability. You can also use auto finish polishing compound in a can from the auto store, Flitz or Brasso polish, and some dry abrasive powders available at carving supplies. The powders are normally added to an application of one of the other wax based products. They seem to be a bit more aggresive but will rerally speed the process.

Al

Al

Another area where we can get lost in the details. Almost anything that is finely abrasive can be used successfully for stropping (including nothing). Fine valve grinding compound works also. One thing I haven't tried, that I really need to, is the diamond paste that is now available. A strop can be made out of many materials; denim trousers work as well as the wool 'stag pants.' I've even used toothpaste on a piece of denim when nothing else was available (you'll try anything when you stuck at sea on a destroyer). All that said, what I currently use is: if the strop moves; the jewelers rouge mentioned by AlArchie and if I'm moving the blade, yellowstone (which for some reason is pink) littleshavers carries it. I guess what I'm really trying to say is it all boils down to personal preference. Try a few of them and pick the ones you like.

[FK]

The leather strop compound I like best is 'Yellowstone' developed by knife maker Herb Dunkle of Great Falls, VA. It is dry like chalk, and works very fast leaving a mirror polish. This is not designed for buffing wheels,,,it does not have a wax binder.

The buffing wheel very fine finishing compound (wax based) is Green Chromium Oxide, the color is just dye added to the wax binder,,,,it is not a indication of quality or grit size.

Lee Valley sells very nice Green Chrome Oxide and the same material is available from Woodcraft Supply. One stick will last for many years. I also use this on leather strops with great results.

Regards,
Fred Krow

[colin_partridge]

The only thing I know is that I use the yellow only because someone told me that the others have Chromium Oxide in them that may be harmful to your lungs and evidently the yellow compound does not. I have tried them all in the past with much sucess and dont find a whole lot of difference in any of them.
Colin

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I have red and green jewelers rouge...which I don't care for, it is hard and powders up and won't stay on a strop, I have aluminum oxide, the white stuff. it works good but leaves black marks on everything, I also have the chromium oxide that works fine, not sure about the health hazard, but life is a health hazard and you don't handle it that much, mine is in a baggy and I really don't handle it at all! Then there is the flexcut 'yellow gold' I like it a lot, but the yellow comes off on your hands and is hard to get off...so there you are, imperfect compounds in an imperfect world LOL

[AlArchie]

Dave, you can fix that powdery jeweler's rouge by adding a little mineral oil, light machine or motor oil or even vegetable oil to the stick and let it soak in for a while. Or try getting the red rouge from Santa Fe Jewelers' Supply. It is really the softest and easiest to apply that I have found anywhere. Your idea of storing it in a baggy works well too, keeps it from drying out.

Al

[BobD]

I've heard about the chromium oxide being dangerous as well; I inhale enough things just breathing that I try not to take any other heavy metals in!

Now if they made a cigar our to chromium oxide, I'd be in trouble

BOb

[Kenny_S]

Red Jewelers rouge and the yellow compound that Flexcut sells for stroping. One old timer stropped his knife on the ball of his plam. His knives were super sharp. Guess the oils in his hands helped.
Again, different views on the same sunject. Would be boring if all had the same view!