This question is for Neil Moore

[f250]

So Bob, being the all powerful editor you are, you could post a couple pictures here for all of us to see?

Tom

[BobD]

The camera is on location today...I'll try to snap some tomorrow (in all my spare time...<GRIN>)

Bob

[minowevie]

well I should stay out of this, but just can't. laying flat after cutting is not what segmentation is . the pieces are all cut from one piece of wood. or maybe not. unlike intasia. where each piece is cut from differant woods. and thickness's. segmentation is cut from one piece, and one thickness. so you have to raise and lower the pieces to get the dimition. I think that is what Neal is talking about . when he explains the nails and fillers. to hold the pieces up. its kindof like cutting the piece out. then raising some of the pieces up. to creat the dimention. then holding them all together, in that way. filling the back to fill in the holes they will leave between the backer to the pieces. to hold them up. the cool thing about segmentation. is you can do this in any wood. pine for a exsampale. you don't wont to use a wide blade so not to make a wide kerf. but can be done on any saw. then you can color the pieces to anything you wish the piece to portray. unlike intasia. where the wood is the color, and grain. just lifting the pieces is the gole. that is something you can figure out yourself. some how hot glueing them together to keep them up till the filler is made behind them, gosh Hope this makes sence. its like cutting something out, then putting your fingure behind the cuttings, and push up. making it dimentional. and filling in the space. hope this helped some. I love semetation. and Neal has made some great patterns. your friend Evie

[lucky788scroller]

Again, Im not Neal Moore, but hopefully this will help you out.Attached is a picture of the front of the ratcoon I did, as well as a photo of the back of that same piece.I started with one piece of maple, and a pretty fine blade (#1 FD-TC I think) .Saw was set at square to the table for everything except the frame, where the table was tilted so as to create a frame with a tight fit around the oval.After cutting, and staining to the desired colors, the pieces were carefully glued together at the desired heights. After the whole thing was glued up, and because I too wanted it flat on the back, I wrapped around that oval frame with a couple rounds of masking tape to make it fit tightly within the oval waste piece from the original board. This also held the whole thing a little bit up higher than the waste piece. Because the nose area stuck so far down,I double face taped a couple strips of wood on the front side so the nose was up and not resting on the table.Then, with my Performax drum sander, I passed it through until the back was flat enough for my tastes. The dark areas on the photo of the backside are the areas that protrude out the front the most, and I didnt feel the need to keep sanding until that was gone, but I certainly could have without any ill effects.It hangs flat against the wall this way, and because the ratcoons head is fitted back into its surrounding wood, it almost appears as if hes real, and poking his head out right at you.
I dont know if that made total sense to you, or if you have access to a sander like Ive used, but the technique was rather simple actually. If you need any more help (even though Im not Neal), I will try the best I can. Good luck with it!

[workin for wood]

I totally understand it all, jacking up and everything else involoved, I was only surprise by the use of silicone as an adhesive. Silicone will hold, no doubt, and has flexibility which can be a bonus, but you get any on the finish surface and it ruins the finish. That was my only thought. Laying flat to me, simply means the back of the picture is flat where it would adhere to a backer, plaque or whatever else. So, I don't recommend Silicone or even let it in my shop, but that's just me, and I don't tell everyone else what to do, as there is always more than one way to skin a cat!

[BobD]

I know Neal finishes his work before attaching it to the backing board, so...having silicone caulk interfering with a finish isn't an issue. I seal 99% of my pieces with a thin cut of shellac, so silicone contamination isn't really an issue for me.

Bob

[Janette]

Originally Posted by BobD

I've got Neal's tiger (the first one he did for the magazine) in my office. Looking at it (framed) it has almost a shadow-box look...It really looks a lot like a relief carving that was deeply undercut.

Bob

Is that where the projects end up?

You must have a lot of wall space - or do you rotate them?

(just being silly again!)

[BobD]

We've got artwork all over the office. I just had a chance to snag Neal's. I've mostly got my own work on the walls (two portraits-style patterns I had to test cut, a NW Native American Mask I carved, and two antique-style decoys a Canadian friend carved.)

Bob

[Wood Dog]

Pictures Bob.........ya know we love pictures here.

[BobD]

Camera's out of the office...should be back next week...

Bob