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Old 02-28-2007, 02:19 AM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Santa Clarita, California
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Thanks Doug. I will do some serious re-measure and try to do the cuts again. I was sure it was just my angle being off, but just in case THANKS for your observations.
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:48 PM   #12
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I recut tseveral sections using longer pattern (instead of 1 1/2x4 1/4 it is 1 1/2x 5 thus making the arc or radius larger, smoother transition) but IMHO the 30degree miters are incorrect due to the fact that the sections are joined using a compound miter. Just need to figure out what anglt the sections are joined at.
Its like cutting miters for a picture fram that the sides are slanted, not flat.
the link I posted is a miter calculator. I entered 6sections and 45degree angle thus the miters need to be cut at 20 .5 degrees.
I plan on playing with this interesting project.
and yes if you cut out the profile (pic 3) and use the cut off as a steady rest the push block is not needed (pic 8).
Looking at the pics (7 & 8) it looks like a board is being used as a fence? Is it me or ??can't see using a fence as the piece needs to be turned to follow the radius of the section???

http://www.woodworkersguildofga.org/...Calculator.htm
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:03 PM   #13
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Doug,
In order for it to work out, you HAVE to use the fence. I know some of the instructions seem basic and fundamental, but if you follow it exactly, it does work out!

I've done several myself (I had to prove to the rest of the editoral staff that it works).

Since you are running a curved blank along a fence with the table angled, it automatically cuts the egg section to shape. In fact, the only thing I used the pattern for was to help me line the fence up properly to make the two cuts. And if you use the fence, you HAVE to use the angled push stick, otherwise your angles will be wrong.

If you have any questions, please feel free to give me a shout! 1-800-457-9112.

Bob Duncan
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