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| Author Questions |
12-23-2006, 12:24 PM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Forest City, NC
Posts: 156
| What wood do you use? What type and thicknes of wood do you use for cutting the patterns with all the spectacular detail? What type of blades?
Cathy |
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12-23-2006, 06:17 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin
Posts: 4,536
| That depends mostly on what exactly I'm cutting. If its a plaque sort of thing, I use 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch, depending on the design.If its something like a Christmas ornament, I use 1/8th inch or 1/4th inch, again depending on the pattern and the look Im after.For the fancy clocks, most of the time its 1/4th inch, mainly because thats what the pattern was designed to be built of most of the time.Check your pattern instructions to be sure BEFORE you buy wood.For portrait/landscape type cuttings, its usually 1/4 or 1/8th thick, both on baltic birch plywood or hardwoods.It all depends on the look I think will look nice with the particular design. I will say, the majority of my cuttings are in the 1/4 and 1/2 thicknesses.
As for the type of wood, I think most things look beautiful in red oak. Cherry is another good wood, as is maple and walnut . For more antique looking things, I just about always use a dark wood like walnut, and sometimes a dark piece of cherry.
The main thing is to look at your pattern and decide what you think it will look nice in, and go from there if there arent any specifice requirements.After you build up a pile of extra pieces of wood, you will tend to cut things that fit the availability of your wood stock, as well as choosing for look.Grain direction should always be considered as well, to help hold the brittle pieces intact and to look pleasing to the eye. Blade choice questions on here start a fuming war everytime, but if you get yourself some #3,and #5 flat blades with reverse teeth on the bottom, and some #2/0 spiral blades, you can cut just about anything, unless you are going into 1 inch thickness or more, then a #5 or #7 without reverse teeth.Ordering your blades online from suppliers is much cheaper then going to the BORG, check it out. I hope that helped a little . Merry Christmas, Dale |
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12-23-2006, 06:59 PM
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#3 | | junior moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Chertsey, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 2,016
| Thank you for that information. Will be printing it. The patterns don't always have the information included.
__________________ Dragon
Owner of a Dewalt 788
PuffityDragon on AFSP |
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12-23-2006, 09:41 PM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin
Posts: 4,536
| If its ever a specific project, ask for a suggestion, I'll help whenever I can. Dale |
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12-23-2006, 10:49 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 820
| I've only cut about 8 patterns but so far I'm using 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood. This thickness is just right for cuttings that will go into a store bought frame. The frame backing bows slightly so I use button stops to hold everything together. |
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12-23-2006, 11:05 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
Posts: 2,247
| My wood selection depends on the project.
If it has a lot of veining or small details I think a light wood shows the best, (baltic birch) most of my ornaments are in 1/16 Finnish birch(stacked 6up). Pictures, the lichterbogen ( just posted in the gallery by) all call for 1/8 baltic birch. (stack cut) for inlays and other projects I use whatever wood enhances the project most. I don't like thick wood, it tends to be too clunky for my taste. I like the illusion of delicate. I am sure many of you will disagree with that, that is why this is such a wonderful forum.
Of course Intarsia is a whole nother story.
The attached image was done in the 1/16 birch, if it was darker you lose all of the detail.
__________________
Rolf
RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350
Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
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12-27-2006, 10:15 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Beautiful Southern Oregon
Posts: 628
| Rolf, that is a very nice cutting and pattern. Thank you for sharing. ![004[1]](http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/images/smilies/004[1].gif)
__________________
Chuck D
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour. Hegner 18, Delta p-20, Griz 14 inch Band saw |
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12-28-2006, 01:28 PM
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#8 | | Grumpy Old Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Galaxy far, far away
Posts: 2,552
| I tend to use 1/8" baltic birch mainly due to the fact that everything I make is for sale and I can stack 6 or so pieces. I've also cut fairly intricate pieces out of Mahogany which is a joy to scroll as well as Brazilian cherry, oak, walnut, maple, purple heart (very brittle however), padauk, etc. It all depends on what it is I'm cutting.
__________________
Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671 A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor and bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government. - Thomas Jefferson |
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01-02-2007, 03:54 PM
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#9 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5
| Is there a wood that stands out above the others for beginners? I've been scrolling for a whole week now (lol) and know nothing about wood. The wood I have used is just scraps from what my husband left around the garage. Just trying to get used to how it works and feels. From all the choices from wood there has to be some that are much easier to cut (for beginners) than others. |
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01-02-2007, 04:04 PM
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#10 | | Fallen Angel
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,465
| You just can't beat MDF! It's stable, it's cheap, it's readily available, it's paintable.
Perfect  .
Added to which, it's difficult to get hold of anything else where I live ![004[1]](http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/images/smilies/004[1].gif) .
Gill
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