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| | #11 | |
| Fallen Angel Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,625
| Quote:
!http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/4/p...saw-365272.htm Gill | |
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| | #12 |
| American Crafstman |
That pic that Gil posted looks like the saw made by Rexon industries for at least a couple of brands (Craftsman and Dremel). If the one you saw said made in the USA it's definately an older one. Keyboard malfunction here, so forgive the missing letter. et's tools are made in Taiwan now. Powermatic is part of the same company as et. It's their high-end brand. Kevin
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| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 743
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Gary Thanks for the look and the info. Nice work in your site also. You always did nice work. That saw by jet is not made any more and the one by powermatic does look exactly like it. The 16" model by Jet looks like a hundred models under different names. It is made in the UK and wonder why it is not sold in the states. Now I saw an article while poking around and it had "NEW" written across the top. Do not know how long that article has been there but maybe this is a new saw we will see. With all these tool companies selling out you do not know who makes what any more. Evidently there is a division of Jet in Switzerland and some of those tools are totally different then the ones sold here such as their lathes. They also have a cabinet table saw that would give any of the ones here a run for their money. Getting back to the original saw that has some weight coming in at 300 pounds. No cement bags needed there. That saw would last a life time. Nice find on that one Gary.
__________________ John T. |
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| | #14 |
| Moderator CUT IT OUT |
A good friend of mine has a saw which looks so close it could be a twin. It is a Delta Milwaukee and was made in the 40s. It takes two people to lift it. The oil bath keeps things running extremely smooth. It has a 24"throat. I have used the saw many times before, the blade tensioning system does take some getting used to and I wouldn't recommend it for intricate fretwork, only because it takes quite some time to re thread the blade and reset the tension. It does run extremely smooth though, you can place a nickle on its edge and run the saw, the nickle will remain standing. He basically stole his saw too $250 Canadian at a garage sale.I do like the true up and down motion of the blade. the weakest link to me was the blade tensioning system.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net." Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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| | #15 |
| Moderator Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Greencastle, Pa
Posts: 12
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That does look like my girl Carl.LOL Thanks for sharing. Gary
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| | #16 |
| Senior Member |
[QUOTE=CanadianScroller] It does run extremely smooth though, you can place a nickle on its edge and run the saw, the nickle will remain standing. funny you mention the nickle thing. Two years ago at the midwestern scrollsaw picnic I stood a nickle on edge on a dewalt saw I was using (the saw belongs to the Boelmans, and was there for use in the scrollsaw corral), and I scrolled for an hour and a half without that nickle rolling off the table or falling over.There were many amazed at how vibration free that saw ran. One of my dewalts here at home I can do the same thing with if I put a block of wood under the front legs to make the table level because I tilted the saw.The other dewalt the nickle will stay standing while the saw is running , but once wood is pushed into the blade it tips over. Either saw though is pretty vibration free, and both get plenty of hard use. Its funny how we somtimes do these goofy little experiments with our tools just out of curiosity.I tried the nickle on my tablesaw table, lol, the nickle probably wouldnt stay standing even if I glued three of them together! But the tablesaw does all that I expect it to do, I cant complain about that. |
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| | #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,975
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Roy, I use a product called Mod Podge. It is available in craft stores. It can glue down your picture and coat it for use. Dries clear. I have also sprayed it with gloss polyurethane after it has dried with no apparent ill effects. A spray adhesive such as 3M 6065 Artist's Adhesive is also supposed to adhere permanently if not allowed to become tacky before you stick the picture to the wood. I use it for temporary work for adhering patterns but mineral spirits loosens the adhesive easily. I have not tried the permanent adhesion technique with it. Good luck and remember there are no mistakes in scrolling, just happy accidents. Sawdustus of Hiawatha |
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| | #18 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 4
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Gary, I attended one of your sessions at the open house and found it very informative. You mentioned a particular shareware program that you use to capture photos from videos or DVD's. Can you tell me the name of that program again? Thanks, Doug |
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| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Kentucky
Posts: 132
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Hi Gary, What kind of finish-sealer (what is the difference?) do you recommend using on portraits using baltic birch plywood and placing them in a frame under glass? Would Danish Oil be a wrong choice under glass? Also, if you do not use a sealer-finish will the wood change colors over the years? !-Sonja |
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| | #20 |
| Moderator Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Greencastle, Pa
Posts: 12
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Sorry for the late reply Doug. I use CyberLink PowerDVD You can download a trial version for about 15 days here: http://www.cyberlink.com/multi/download/download.html Have fun, Gary |
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