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| Author Questions |
08-10-2008, 03:00 AM
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#1 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2
| new to the world of scroll sawing I saw some beautiful work at a friend's house done on a scroll saw so I decided this was a great hobby for me.
I purchased a used scroll saw, a Delta 16 in. 2 speed Cat. #40-560 type 2 after seeing some lovely fine work done on this saw, I also was gived the 'Scroll Saw Handbook' by Patrick Spielman by the seller, who's Father-the previous owner-had recently passed on. The machine looks to be in perfect condition throughout, and ran quietly.
I tried it out after getting home using an Olson Univ. No. 12R blade on 1/4 inch oak and had difficulty as the work jumped up frequently and did not like being cut. I checked all the pivot points and applied lubrication, all parts are in perfect condition. This saw seems to be a 'parallel arm Constant Tension type' so recommended as a good design.
My question is this, the diagram in Spielman's book shows how the saw blade should move into the cut on the down stroke, and moves slightly back on the up stroke. Checking this saw carefully (I am a mechanical engineer) showed the opposite action! The blade moves back about 1/16 in. on the down stroke and into the cut the same amount on the up stroke! Not having a manual for this machine (anyone who passes on knowledge of where one can be obtained would be a hero to me!) I am totally puzzled as this seems to be why my machine is cutting so poorly. I even tried installing the blade with teeth facing up! This improved the cutting action but, of course, causes the work to jump up off the table, so is not the answer! The blade clamps swivel freely as they should with no slackness or wear anywhere to be found in any of the machine's parts.
So if any kind person can advise a novice like me, I would be eternally grateful. rita_d_graham@hotmail.com |
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08-10-2008, 05:41 PM
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#2 | | Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,030
| Alan:
Welcome to the Forum.
Alan, you should be aware that this forum has had some bad experiences with posters asking questions and wanting replies sent to their Hotmail or Gmail personal email address. Sending such a reply is not a recommended practice anymore no mater how legitimate your questions. It is not you, it is the the bad experiences from the past. It is best to post replies on this board for others can learn from your questions.
Your Delta saw: DeWalt (and Delta) Servicenet Dot Com
Use the web site's search box and enter your scroll saw model type. (a couple of web pages down, you will get to a mostly black page, move mouse around on upper left side to see next link.)
I would suggest you examine how you have mounted the blade in the blade chuck. Also verify the rubber grommet (item #32 on parts list) between the upper arm and blade chuck assy. is not missing. The upper and lower blade chucks should have a slight ability to rotate a few degrees as the arms go up and down (on your model of scroll saw.)
Aside: the rubber grommet on the upper arm, where the tension adjustment is, should be replaced now and then; it also why, on your machine, you need to release the blade tension when ever you stop cutting at end of day. Grommet cost about $1.00 from delta while supplies last. Delta no longer makes scroll saws.
BTW: as a Mechanical Engineer, you will note the drive is on the lower arm, and there will be a minute delay for the drive to push/pull the upper arm. The tension on the blade must be high enough so the blade will not go out of tension during the momentary lag in time between the upper and lower arms during a full stroke cycle. The scroll saw blades don't like compression, they tend to bend.
Phil |
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08-10-2008, 07:41 PM
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#3 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2
| Thank you very much for your response and advice Phil.
I have tried to access parts info on the service site you passed to me with little success. Entering the model # 40-560 for my machine and searching gives no parts information of use to me. I realize that mine is an older machine and that Delta does not make scroll saws any more, but I had hoped to be able to buy parts for it somewhere. I removed the upper arm and separated the chuck assembly.The 5/8 in. dia. rubber pad is worn, also the bellows for the air pump is split, so I would like to buy these parts. Everything else is in perfect condition. The chucks swivel properly and freely. I have no info on installing the blade as the manual was lost. I made sure the blade was at right angles to the chuck blocks and clamped it securely and tensioned it, I think, correctly - about 1/8 in. max. flex in any direction. Can you give me the part No's, and/or item No's for the rubber disc, and bellows? and any advice on where to buy them?? Again, many thanks for your help, it is great to know that support is out there in the scrolling world! |
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08-10-2008, 09:20 PM
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#4 | | Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,030
| Air pump - go to pet store and look for water tank air pumps. should cost about $25.00 USD for a pump that will attach to plastic pipe on your saw. Air pumps for Water tank can be Googled to get an idea of products, features, and prices you may have to pay. Original part: air diaphram #1343625
Grommet is Part number 134361. I think you still can order that part from the Delta central service warehouse. Should be a phone number of link in previous post for calling in. You could log into web site and see if they will accept an order.
Link to PDF at Delta site: http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Prod...cumentId=29955
I hope this helps |
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08-10-2008, 10:40 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: california
Posts: 5,152
| Alan, I would think the blade is alittle big for 1/4 ". I use a #2. a #12,reverse tooth will bounce your wood big time. that is alot of blade. and the revers tooth will bring it up so hard. just my opionion. you can use revers tooth, that really makes the underside cut clean. but a #12 wow. maybe try a smaller # blade see if that don't work better for you. your friend Evie
Edit, I also forgot to mention, hold your work down. I keep my fingures pretty close the the blade , just my preferance. and hold it down. to keep it from jumping around. turn with other hand. also. if the wood is warped at all. this will cause the problem. hope this helps. Evie
Last edited by minowevie : 08-10-2008 at 10:43 PM.
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08-11-2008, 08:54 PM
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#6 | | Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: central illinois
Posts: 49
| I agree with Evie with the blade being too much for that wood.
I also have a Delta 2 speed saw I don't use much anymore and I never could use it on high speed. It broke every blade.
Good Luck. |
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08-12-2008, 07:53 AM
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#7 | | Dino
Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Fergus Falls,MN
Posts: 712
| Alan, I have a Delta 45-540 and for the rubber gromet I drilled a hole in a piece of wood the same size as the gromet, filled it with glue from a hot glue gun, let it harden and remove it. This was a temporary fix as I needed one but surprisingly it lasted for quite a while. As mentioned 12R is to thick of a blade for 1/4" wood. The reverse teeth would be why the wood is jumping. I Agree with Evies comment. You say it is a "constant tention type". I would think there is a tention release for changing blades.
Dean |
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08-12-2008, 09:47 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 926
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