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| Author Questions |
05-13-2008, 03:34 PM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Saltspring Island B.C. Canada
Posts: 554
| It could be the blade manufacturer eg. Olsen ,Flying Dutchman etc .Sorry can't remember the rest . I find I seem to cut better with one than the other . I think a couple of companies will send out a sample package . It's best to try each one till you find your prefererence . I break blades , but it is usually because I'm in a hurry or unattentive .Has a lot to do with the type of wood and correct blade for that thickness and everything everyone else has suggested . I find I go through small drill bits in a hurry on 3/4 " wood . They catch a growth ring and vear off. Be nice to see them made out of a stonger metal also .Cheers .Roger |
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05-13-2008, 06:32 PM
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#12 | | Grumpy Old Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Galaxy far, far away
Posts: 2,382
| They could possibly apply a titanium nitride coating but I don't think it would make all that much of a difference (plus it would add to the thickness of the blades). As far as making a blade purely out of titanium, it would likely be very brittle due to the hardness of titanium. It's a very difficult metal to work with and is very prone to cracking. The tooling costs alone to work with it would likely be prohibitive as well. For some things, plain old steel is still the best option.
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Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671 |
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05-14-2008, 12:01 AM
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#13 | | Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4
| Thanks, all... Will take all advice into consideration, and pages too! Thank you, and looking forward to solving this issue! I don't see where my machine; though not a top name saw, could have much to do with, as all seem basically the same. But, most likely my tension, and/or pressure applied to, and/or twisting, etc. Again, Thank you, will experiment with! Derek |
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05-15-2008, 04:23 PM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mountain City, Georgia USA
Posts: 134
| I am new at Scroll Sawing but have had good experience with flying dutchman blades. I have sawn about 100 hours or so and have worn out quite a few blades but have only broken one while feeding it through a hole that was drilled wrong. Maybe I'm just lucky but I can only say be patient and let the blade do the cutting. Don't try to feed to fast, and check for the correct tension,All of which could cause a blade to break.
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Hank, in Georgia - Dewalt 788 Scroller.
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05-15-2008, 10:47 PM
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#15 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 180
| I use FD spirals almost exclusively and usually get 3 or 4 projects out of each blade. I only break one when it's old, dull and I'm almost finished with a piece, lol.
Check your tension and slow down on feeding the wood into the blade. Those 2 are the main culprits in premature blade deaths worldwide.
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muzzleloader
"Scrolling through life, one kerf at a time."
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05-16-2008, 02:48 PM
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#16 | | Jr. Sawdust Taster
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 244
| I think tension and sharpness are the two most important things with breaking blades. I had an old delta 40-530 and I have found I could not put enough tension on the blade. It kept flexing way to much. Now that I'm using a dewalt, I can put more tension on the blade and get a nice clean high "C" when I ping the blade. I have yet to break a blade on that machine. I've bent a few getting used to topfeeding, but not broken.
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Jim
-->> Proudly sawing with a Dewalt DW788
"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well."
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05-18-2008, 12:04 AM
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#17 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: california
Posts: 4,600
| Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianScroller I broke a blade yesterday  It was a spiral blade and I broke it while threading it through a hole.
I think you pose a good question.
Blades are being innovated all the time.
Two things would drive the need to innovate, the need to perform a task better or a good market.
I think you have set out both of these requirements in your question.
It would be interesting to see the response from a blade manufacturer or a metallurgist on why or why not a titanium blade would be an advantage.
Keep asking these questions, the knowledge can't hurt us. | Carl you crack me up. to funny. threading. mmm. your friend Evie.
I have to add. I have broken many just getting them out of that little bag. Heck I have even broken some just getting them out of my mail box.  ![013[1]23](http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/images/smilies/013[1]23.gif) |
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05-21-2008, 04:35 PM
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#18 | | Member
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: michigan
Posts: 69
| Hi Derek,
You already have received alot of good information but I'll add my 2 cents if you don't mind. I broke quite a few blades when I first started using a scroll saw. Don't be discouraged it happens. I don't believe you said how long you have been scrolling. There is a period of time required to become proficient with any saw. One thing that might help is try useing larger size blades such as #5, #7, or #9 blades when possible. Larger size blades are more forgiving. Also it is possible to get bad blades just like any other comsumer product. Some blades also seem to perform better than others. Some like Olsen, some prefer FD, etc. You just have to find the brand that works best for you. Hang in there I'm glad I did as I get a lot of pleasure from scrolling.
We are all pulling for ya,
Stoney |
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