Of the various whirligig projects I have designed, the airplanes from World War II are my favorites. The P-51 Mustang was originally designed and built for the British air force. It first saw action in 1940. Later, the P-51 was used in the American air force.
The project in the photograph was painted to refl ect an American version. Many veterans feel it was one of the best all-around fighter airplanes of WWII. After the war, the P-51 remained in US service into the 1950s and served as a combat fighter in the Korean War. By the time the war ended in 1945, over 15,000 airplanes were built. About 150 remain airworthy today.
This P-51 Mustang whirligig is an easy project to make for your yard. You can follow my paint scheme or customize the whirligig with your own design. The body swivels to face into the wind, and the 3-blade propeller assembly spins in even the slightest breeze. I made the fuselage from ¾ "-thick pine. The horizontal stabilizer and wing are both ½ "-thick exterior plywood. The propellers are cut from ⅛ "-thick plywood. The drawings on the following pages should be enlarged 200% to make the whirligig to the original scale, using the stock listed in the materials list.
Step 1: Transfer the patterns to
the stock. Enlarge the patterns and
trace them onto the stock, using
carbon paper. Flip the half-patterns
over when tracing to make the full
wing and stabilizer peices.
Step 2: Cut out the pieces. I use
an Olson #456PGT blade to cut the ¾ "-thick and ½ "-thick stock. Cut
the ½ "-thick parts first. Then cut
the profile of the fuselage. The slots
in the fuselage must match the
thickness of your plywood. Because
plywood thicknesses vary, measure
your plywood, and cut the slots in
the fuselage to match.
Step 3: Cut three propellers
from the 1⁄8"-thick plywood. I use
an Olson #455PGT blade.
Step 4: Assemble the whirligig
body. Insert the horizontal stabilizer
and the wing in the slots in the
fuselage. Glue them in place using
water-resistant glue.
Step 5 (Click image for a larger view): Assemble the
propeller hub. Glue the propeller
blades into the slots in the hub.
Sand the surface of the plywood if
the fit seems too tight. Slip a piece
of scrap wood under the hub to
raise it off the table, and secure
each blade with two brads, one on
each side of the hub. A brad pusher
simplifies this task. Although not
included in the parts kit, you may
also wish to drive 5⁄8" galvanized
wire brads in to help secure the
blades in the hub.
Step 6: Add the bushings. Insert
one nylon-flanged bushing into
the ¼ "-diameter hole on each side
of the propeller hub. Drill a 7⁄64"-
diameter hole 11⁄8"-deep in the front
of the fuselage and attach the hub
to the fuselage with a 2" x #6 roundhead
screw. Tighten the screw, but
be sure the hub spins freely.
Step 7: Determine the balance
point. Rest the project on your
finger to determine the balance
point. Mark ½ " forward of the
balance point, and drill a ¼ "- diameter x 1¼ "-deep hole in the
bottom of the fuselage. The location
of this hole may be different from
that shown on the drawing.
Step 8: Add the fiberglass rod.
Glue the ¼ "-diameter fiberglass
rod in the hole in the bottom of the
fuselage. When you remove the
whirligig from the post, you do not
want the rod left protruding in case
a child would fall on it.
Step 9: Paint the project. Use
the reference photo and color
recommendations on the patterns
as guides, or do some research to
find other paint schemes. Prime the
project with a quality exterior-rated
primer. Then paint the topcoats
with exterior paint. Transfer the
detail lines either freehand or by
using graphite transfer paper. Then
paint the accents. I use a black paint
marker to outline the windows.
Paint the stake green to blend with
your lawn. You may wish to finish
by brushing a coat of polyurethane
over the final coat of paint. Caution:
polyurethane may react chemically
with some paints, especially
the paint marker. If you apply
polyurethane, test on a painted
piece of scrap wood first.
Step 10: Display the project. It
can be mounted on a deck railing,
a fence post, or simply on a 2" x 4" or 4" x 4" wood post that has been
pounded in the ground. Drill a 5⁄16"
hole 1¾ " deep in the top of the
post. Slip the 5⁄16" nylon-flanged
bushing in this hole. A 5⁄16"-diameter
round bead or a ball bearing (not
included in the parts kit) can be
dropped into the hole to act as a
bearing surface. After the project
adjusts to the humidity, the hub
may swell, so it may be necessary to
adjust the screw after a few days. |